Hello,

I'm trying to build my first 3DFoamy kit, the Mini Katana. I have a couple questions about adhesive for the lamination:

1. The "Tips & Tricks" section at 3DFoamy.com says to use 3M 77 to laminate the layers. Is 3M 77 the same thing as 3M Super 77? All I could find was Super 77, and the print on the can says to not use it on Expanded Polystyrene Foam.

2. Based on posts in other forums, it sounded like the Super 77 would be safe, so I used it to laminate the fuselage sections. In my messiness, I got some in areas of the fuselage where it shouldn't be. What's the best way to get it off without hurting the Depron?

Thanks

Hi, yes thats the right stuff, as for getting it back off, Im not sure if you can, I have never tried to remove it before.. but be careful what you use.

Thanks John.

I have a couple more questions for you:

1. I'm trying to put the control horns together. Is the part I'm holding correct? What's the little piece for?

2. I can't figure out what the half-inch strips of depron are for. Where do they go?

Thanks,
Nathan

Hi, it looks right, if you ca them in good you wont need the bottom piece farthest from the hole on there. The piece laying on your table is for a bipelane, but can be used for a pushrod guide. The strips are to box the tail of the plane for strength yet keeping it light.

John, thanks for your responses.

I'm not sure what you mean by "box the tail." Down the side of the fuse, butting up against the fuse rail?

Also, where do the quarter circle pieces go?

Nathan

Nathan, the strips to at angles to box in the tail area from the wing to the elevators.. a 45* angle

The discs are just to keep the fuse and stab square to the fuse when you glue it together, they dont get glued onto the plane at all.

John,

I installed the strips down the length of the tail at a 45-degree angle. I think I understood you correctly.

Now working on servo placement. Nothing made permanent until after painting.

I put the elevator servo as close to the elevator as possible (limited by wire length). With my elevator servo control arm so close to the centerline of the plane, my control rod will have to angle away in order to find a section on the elevator with enough depth to host the control horn. I'm guessing this isn't ideal. Any thoughts or suggestions?

Didn't try quite so hard with the rudder servo to place if aft. Do you think it's too far from the rudder to have an effective pull/push setup with the carbon rod in the kit? Should I switch to pull/pull?

Is the red tube in the kit shrink tubing? If so, I'm guessing I'm supposed to CA the carbon rod into the threaded brass part of the clevis, and then shrink tube it for additional joint strength. Correct?

Thanks,
Nathan

Here, maybe this pic will help.. The red is tube to glue to the fuse for the pushrod to go through. The carbon control rods get ca'd into the gold threaded parts and thats all.

John,

Excellent pictures! A good picture really is worth 1,000 words!

Most pictures try to hide the wires, servos, etc. But as a first-time builder, that's what I'm interested in.

It looks like you're using control arms of only a moderate length. Ever since I started learning about 3D flying, I read about people getting the longest control arms possible. Those moderate length control arms work well for your 3D flying?

Nathan

I use the longest ones that come with the servo's.

I'm trying to decide what to do. I've got the Hacker A20-50S motor and the Hacker X-7 ESC. The specs for the X-7 say it's good for 2-3 servos, but I've got this plane setup for 4 servos (one for each aileron). If I upgrade to the X-20 ESC, which can handle 3-4 servos, how will that affect my motor?

Is the motor pulling current from ESC, or is the ESC pushing current at the motor? How is the ESC controlling the motor, by setting RPM, or by pushing current?

Nathan

It will work with 4 servo's just fine.

Hey, I heard of a new foamy website that is going to have over 50 different designs of planes on it. And it is much cheaper than 3D foamy. You should check out DynamicFoamy.com and call their help center to get details on how to put that plane together and see if there are any others you would like them to design. I heard they will take suggestions and design and test the planes for you. Pretty cool. I also have their new YAK design and it is great to fly!! Check it out. DynamicFoamy.com

Thanks John.

Ken

Well, I finally finished building my Mini Katana. It's weighing in at around 11.2oz. I attribute the extra weight to paint & glue. Probably a little anemic when it comes to 3D, but plenty of power for normal flying. Besides, the 3D will be further down the road...after I remember how to fly normally.

I went out and flew it today. After having knocked off only a little rust with RealFlight G3 down at the hobby store (10 days ago), I boldly ran up the motor and let her loose. It was fun for about 5 minutes, but then I started thinking about how I'm going to land this thing without crashing. It has no gear. I started making low passes. On one of those low passes, headed straight toward me, I got my left and right mixed up. Cartwheel. Broke the prop. Snapped the fuselage in three. Empanage held on only by control rods. "Firewall" forward almost broke loose.

A little CA & some scrap foam to fill in the missing section. Gotta go buy another prop. I think I'll spend a little more time with RealFlight when I'm at the store.