Learned an very important secrete this weekend. When cutting the flight metal, dip the knife into paint thinners before each cut. This way, the lubrication allows a much smoother cut but more importantly.. the thinners desolves the glue along the cut allowing the waste to be pealed off cleanly. Before this I had to cut way to hard and deep to make a clean seperation. The difference is day and night and the blade lasts 10 X longer

Getting the hang of it more and more.. still have problems getting enough stretch for complex shapes. I think the trick is to creat excess material further back so there is enough material to work into or around a concave or convexed area. I keep getting close but the material finally splits just as I think I may finally get it all down.

Also, though a shoot of windex allows repostioning, it takes several days before you can add the next panel next to it or the tape will pull the first panel up. When ever possible, I found that making a template just big enough to cover the panel + the tape outline, then carefully lay the piece on the plane dry.. If it is curved area, find the longest run with in the panel, usually diagonally, then cup the flitemetal so it can only contact a center point. I then use my finger to work it down along the longest point being sure to keep the edges cupped up so you do not have premature grab. I keep working the the piece down using my finger,slowly allowing more and more of the cuppled sheet to come into contact. Your finger is less likely to cause stretch, but when stretch is need, the artists stump used at the point allows a smooth application.

The one thing I think the supplier should do is supply much better instructions on the application methods. The pictures are too small and the text is very brief. I know he did not want to confuse but in reallity, the lack of info is the real problem. The material is very pricey, I dont think adding a few more pages of instruction would subtract from the bottom line.

Best regards,

Randy