I use a small nut drilled out to help center the brass tube that mounts to the top of the yoke. It’s the smaller diameter brass tube.

Solder the brass tube on and try to keep it as straight as possible. Try not to get solder all over the tube, if you do use a small file to smooth it out.

For the small brass wheel fairing you are going to need to use a small piece of heavier brass sheet to help stiffen it. Again, first add a few beads of solder then lay the extra piece down and hit it with the soldering iron.

Before you solder the brass wheel fairing on, make sure your aluminum upper fairing matches and adjust as necessary. I just cut the front ring of the brass off so that I could adjust it easier.

Solder the fairing on. Do not solder the sides yet, that will be a final adjustment item after the wheel is fully assembled.

Remove the yoke from the jig and solder the inside of the forks to the top piece.

Drill your mounting holes in back plate. Measure 5/8” from the bottom for the lower holes, this will give you clearance from the pivot axle so that you can actually insert the mounting screws when the time comes.

Soldering the axle support bearings on can be very difficult or you can make it easy by constructing a simple jig. I used some scrap balsa sanded to the proper angle that the forks need to be at to be soldered to the brass tube. Use pins through the mounting holes to hold it in place.