Yeah, Dean, nobody warned me, either, about the expansion of JB Weld, which I suspect you used between the rod and the carbon fiber. You DON'T have to remover the carbon fiber. Just make a fly fisherman's coil on both ends and the center, CA them, and it will hold--keep the rod from bending, DESPITE the crack. You may not even have to use the fly fisherman's coil since the rod is really doing the work anyway--and JB Weld is strong. If you see something black fall off the Twist, you'll know the JB Weld didn't hold, but the ROD will still be there--and not endanger the plane or anyone else.

Ah, I ALSO have a Saito 82 on a Twist. It's become a hangar queen, since the .61 (with an APC 13x4 (summer) or Master Airscrew 13x5 (winter) prop, is such a more versitile, economical, and accomplished bird. I'm STILL running a 13x5 on my .61 Goldberg 540--engine managing okay, not overheating... yet.

I asked Down about his bird tonight, too--and that snap. His does, too. He just doesn't hit the rudder hard, ever. I asked a pro, Mike Lucier, Weak Signals, Toledo, (which club hosts the Toledo Exposition every year), about the snap problem. HE is the one told me to reduce the throw on the ele. I believe he said most airframes have the same problem--too much wind moving over weak balsa.

Try this with your 82: going horizontal at full throttle, execute a roll, full stick throw, either direction. Then go at half throttle and execute the same maneuver. You'll see at full throttle the bird will roll about HALF as fast as at half throttle: too much pressure on those huge surfaces. Something's got to give. With the elevator at full throw up, you get a snap right.

Somebody, please, explain that to me. Since the horn is on the LEFT side, making it LESS flexible, WHY does the plane snap to the RIGHT? Intuitively, it SHOULD snap to the left, the strong, inflexible side.

J