bluestratos

I guess I am on my own since I can't seem to get it clear that I have complete documentation and over a hundred pictures I took of every detail of the real plane. I just cannot get the product to contour to complex shapes and none of the pictures or information I have recieved from everyone really clearly demonstrates the technique. I spent weeks researching flitemetal before I even purchased it. I checked you pics out on your web site and unfortunately most of them will not open on any of the computers I have access too. Besides, pictures of a finished part is of no help in actually applying the product to look like the end result. I reread the Jug covering info from start to finish several times and found no good description of how to work the material around rounded shapes like leading edge tips of the tear dropped shape of my wing. The AT-6 Texan had a three part cowl on the front portion where the curve starts, but I had to use 12 segments to cover it.

A video showing the actual process of appling the metal on complex shapes would solve the problem and it would not have to be like watching paint dry lol. If topflight can make a video for coving using monkote of which I have no problem working with, I am sure we builders using flite metal would love to see video for application technique for differenent examples on a plane including some finishing examples.

I am sure with the lack of specific detail most builders have developed their own style as have I. For example I learned that if I cut the piece slightly oversize, then lay it on the area to be covered before removing the backing, I can use a felt marker to index it.. that is make reference marks on the piece and the tape boarder. Then, I remove the backing using me knee to capture the free end of the flite metal backing so I can peel the backing off and have two hands available to grip.. one for each end of the piece. I then pinch each end and use a third finger to create a slight upwards curl so that as I lay the piece onto the plane I can align the index marks with out premature contact with the part. Once aligned I use a one hand to press the contact area down and the other to hold the material away from the surface. I can then use my finger to work the metal down slowly and with out pressure to avoid unwanted stretch. Doing this allows a perfect application, no wrinkles, no air bubbles. I then burnish down with the artists stump and ensure the outline along the fine line masking tape is clear for cutting. I dip my No 11 exacto blade ( I tired the curved blades but did not like them) into paint thinners and cut following the tape line. If it is a long cut I dip more than once to esure the blade is lubricated and that the glue seperates cleanly when I pull it off. So flat panels or easy contours work flawlessly.. Just cannot get the hang of complex shapes with out watching someone with the skill apply it.