You would have to show me a pic to make it really clear, but I think I get it. Would it help to rotate the carb slightly? If you loosen the cinch nut on the carb, it will turn...Just make sure you are pressing down on it square when you tighten it back up, to avoid air leaks. Or better yet, seal it with a SMALL bead of RTV.

After a few cycles with it rich like that, you could start leaning it out. Always start with the hsn, as this setting affects the lsn. Adjust idle as necessary, whenever necessary.
When you are breaking in a new engine, it is a good idea to not let it run out of fuel, as this deprives the engine of it's lubrication...Which is of utmost importance for a new engine.(Running the tank dry or pinching the fuel line to shut it off or test tune)
To shut off your engine at idle, just snub the flywheel with your shoe/screwdriver handle/other suitable object(I just use my finger [:@][:@]**NOT recommended for .18 or bigger**[:@][:@])
To shut of a run-away engine...Do whatever you can or have to.
I'm not saying you should jump right into tuning for top performance...work your way to it in small increments...
To tune the hsn, pick an area you can drive back and forth in a straight line at WOT(I'm not talkin' Bonneville Salt Flats runs here, just up to the top...not see how long it can stay at the top).
Acceleration should be smooth once it 'clears out', and there should be plenty of smoke coming out the stinger all the way up the revs.
To tune the lsn, after the hsn is set, stop and let it idle for 10-15 seconds, and then punch it. It should be a little loaded up, but easily clear out with a couple of blips of the throttle.