ok, i put the O.S. .12 cvrx on my rustler, and it wasnt idling good so i slightyly adjusted the idle screw adjustment and it idles fine now and ive gone through about 3 tanks and it is very sluggish and wont accelerate very good right now. since im in break in period i imagine this is ok? i know yall get a lot of questions like this but i just wanna make sure im doin this right. is there anything i should do or just keep goin? i guess its running very rich right now because the engine isnt gettin very hot at all. just makin sure this is ok? and makin sure i shouldnt be adjusting anything yet? let me know so i can get this thing goin good! sorry for sounding dumb lol but i just wanna do the right thing so i can have a good running engine! thanks a bunch!!!

Yea, it will sound and act pretty sluggish, but it will come to life in a few more tanks and it's good to have it pretty rich in break in.

ok well thanks...thats good to hear. i know its running rich right now and i havent been able to run any more tanks becuase it tried to start raining but i may try again in a few minutes but thanks for the info! and im still open to any more comments or help, etc.! thanks

ok ive run 5 tanks through it and it is still very rich and sluggish. when i pinch the fuel line to cut it out it takes forever so i know it is extremely rich.....so my question is, do i keep driving it slow with more tanks or should i start tuning it? and also if i do need to start tuning which needle whould i start with b/c it is gonna be very difficult, actually i dont even know how i will get to the low speed needle right now because it is right against my transmission box on the rustler because on the trx 2.5 the low speed needle was on the throtle linkage and on this engine its on the opposite side...maybe someone can tell me a way to tune the low speed needle with it like this. i cant think of sumthin that will fit because there is a gap, just a very small gap (screwdriver wont work) i might could try a small pocket knife...i dunno but maybe sumone else has there carb like this and can give me tips

You would have to show me a pic to make it really clear, but I think I get it. Would it help to rotate the carb slightly? If you loosen the cinch nut on the carb, it will turn...Just make sure you are pressing down on it square when you tighten it back up, to avoid air leaks. Or better yet, seal it with a SMALL bead of RTV.

After a few cycles with it rich like that, you could start leaning it out. Always start with the hsn, as this setting affects the lsn. Adjust idle as necessary, whenever necessary.
When you are breaking in a new engine, it is a good idea to not let it run out of fuel, as this deprives the engine of it's lubrication...Which is of utmost importance for a new engine.(Running the tank dry or pinching the fuel line to shut it off or test tune)
To shut off your engine at idle, just snub the flywheel with your shoe/screwdriver handle/other suitable object(I just use my finger [:@][:@]**NOT recommended for .18 or bigger**[:@][:@])
To shut of a run-away engine...Do whatever you can or have to.
I'm not saying you should jump right into tuning for top performance...work your way to it in small increments...
To tune the hsn, pick an area you can drive back and forth in a straight line at WOT(I'm not talkin' Bonneville Salt Flats runs here, just up to the top...not see how long it can stay at the top).
Acceleration should be smooth once it 'clears out', and there should be plenty of smoke coming out the stinger all the way up the revs.
To tune the lsn, after the hsn is set, stop and let it idle for 10-15 seconds, and then punch it. It should be a little loaded up, but easily clear out with a couple of blips of the throttle.

thank you very much....you cleared a lot of things up for me and made it a lot easier to undertand. i appreciate it! and also about turning the carb, that worked good but my carb was already loose, no very loose but loose enough to turn it if u put a little pressure on it. is this bad?[] will it mess anything up? thanks again

well i went out an ran it more today and the engine is starting to come alive! ive leaned it out some and it got faster but i dont really know how far to go because i dont wanna ruin the engine but it was gettin low on fuel so i let it idle and got the fuel to put it there and after i filled it up i started to go and it bogged down and i had slowly give it throttle to get it goin and after that it was fine.....to me this sounds like its too rich because there was a build up of fuel....should i leave it like this or lean the low speed out a little? and also like i said its goin faster than it did and driving a lot better but at WOT it still isnt goin as fast as i thought it would go....the trx 2.5 would go faster, i mean i know it was a bigger engine but the guy at the LHS said this engine would beat the 2.5? but there is one thing this engine is sooooo much easier to deal with than the 2.5...i couldnt hardly keep the 2.5 running. so should it be faster than the 2.5? should it be able to ride wheelies? and maybe using the stock pipe is making a difference

anyone own the .12 cvrx that can give me tips? tell me anything u know about it....just tell me stuff bout the engine

If you are just breaking it in, keep in mind that the initial run in is only a few tanks...The engine isn't fully broken in for 1/2 to 1 gallon. As it wears in, and you lean it for performance(still too soon for yours), you will see those high revs. I don't know if it will rev as high as the 2.5, that sucker revs to the moon, but you will see better performance after it gets fully broken in, making you a better driver, and your truck will put in faster laps.

It sounds like the lsn is set just fine. Just be aware that it will load up if you leave it sit and idle for a while. While you are driving it you can stop and then pin the throttle and it rips, right? That is what you are looking for. The fact that it idles for an extended period of time, and you are still able to drive it away, means good tune, to me.

Make sure that the carb is tight enough not to move by hand. This will vibrate loose and cause an airleak, making tune an unattainable dream, and usually cause overheating and early engine retirement.

Ok thank you very much for helping me out...what you said makes it sound like my engine is doin fine. I wont tune it anymore for a while because it runs good, and like you said after more tanks of fuel it will come alive more. And yes, I can stop it then punch it and it will take off so i know thats good. But i will keep driving it like it is for now and watch it come to life. This engine does seem very easy to tune and very easy to crank and keep running etc. Thanks again for answering all my questions! You helped me out a lot! I am still open to any comments, tips, etc.