I have built and flown this P-38 and maidened today. Here is what I'd want to know if I were considering this model.

It is an easy conversion to electric. I am a slow builder/tinkerer and put in 25 hours total including having to rewire to put my lipos under the center canopy after running all wires to the area under the wing as it turned out to be too nose heavy to put them under the under the wings in the nice big open area. If you use lighter motors (2 ounces) you may be able to put your lipos behind each firewall and under the wing.

My personal opinion is that two lipos in parallel is better than one lipo seperate to each motor.

I had two perfect landings (only two flights) and that is not typical for me. I attribute that to lowering the front of the plane by having the nose gear up in the plane further than what would create a level plane. This also tilts the wings so the front is lower than the rear which helps hold the plane down when you are taking off and when landing the rear wheels will hit first as opposed to what happens when you hit front wheel first (BOUNCE).

The instructions leave something to be disired as their are several steps missing like the fact that you are supposed to put a wooden dowl in the rear of the wing halves to help hold them together and that their are two more dowls to put in the leading edge of each wing to secure the front of the wing into their fuselage. There is not markings for where they go in. I put the wings in place and made a little mark with a marker where the dowl would likely go and then found the hole by running my finger over that general area.

You can use just one servo for the elevator
I used 4 HS55 servos in the plane and all are working fine.

The hole in each rear wheel was off center so I used two wheels from a Super Sportster EP that were of the same size. Will be looking for larger light weight wheels for grass landing and take off.

The firewall portion that you must build and attaches to the motor was made of two pieces of 1/8" ply glued together. Both were glued without being centered. They come apart easily with a hobby razor that extends several inches like the yellow and black ones from Home Depot.

The wheel mounts are shown being mounted with the part that goes up into the fuselage being on the inside portion of the fuselage (there are two fuselages) so I drilled a hole to do this. Then I noticed when taking the wing off later that a block of wood was added to the opposite side to support a hole being drilled on the outside portion of the fuselage.

The picture shows the CG being measured from one of the fuselages when I believe it was supposed to be measured 3" back from the leading wing edge when starting from beside the center canopy and not an outside wing. I got this advice from another person on this forum and the plane flew great.

My final all up weight was 63 1/2 ounces so just under 4 lbs including batteries and 1 3/8 ounces of lead on the tail.

I used two nippy black 1608/160 motors. $20 each from Hobby Lobby
two Commonsenserc 2000mah 3 cell 8C packs $35 for both
two tower pro 25A esc from raidentech at $23 each

The motors weight 90grams/ 3.12 ounces and had to be built out 1/4" from firewall to make a perfect mount for the 1 3/4" red spinners that look so nice on this model.
I used 7x4 apc slow flyer props that produced 44ounces of thrust at 29amps and 330watts combined.
I static tested some 8x3.8 apc SF props at 58 ounces thrust 40 amps and 440 watts but they may be overkill and the motor is only rated to 16A (each motor) continous. In the air the actual amps used at full throttle would be less that 20A each motor and I intend to fly this set up at some point.

The plane flies nicely at 3/4 throttle and really zips at full throttle. It will not vertical for any period of time but will make a nice loop. I've only had two flights and only attempted one loop thus far.

All in all a nice flying model that looks way cool in the air and could be a static model it looks that good period. Landings were as easy or easier than any of my other 6 planes and I stress the lower front end idea.

I got alot of good info from this thread. Thanks to all especially Glacier!

Carl