I like that Tyvek hinge!! I may have to steal that.

I've been building "live" hinges for years on small stuff and big stuff alike. While it is best to use a thin kevlar cloth, I've done many with regular fiberglass and they lived for a long time. On something like an elevator for a sport plane that doesn't use 3-D 45 degree throws, you end up flexing the glass within its limits and the hinge won't crack and break. I use 3/4oz glass, or two layers of .05 (1/2)oz glass at a 45 degree bias relative to the hinge line. This way you don't kink the fibers as much. If you use a light enough glass and light enough balsa, you can actually laminate the whole middle layer and the glass adds torsional strength to the tail. You want to use an epoxy that is thin so the hinge area doesn't have unnecessary epoxy build up and stiffen the hinge area. That'll cause excess stress and could lead to cracking. The actual hinge line needs to be opened up a little (I'd say 3/16" or 1/8" max) which allows a flex zone. Another glue that might work well in this application is polyurethane (gorilla glue) but test first. It squeegees like thin epoxy and soaks into glass fibers well. You just have to use it sparingly (like epoxy) because it foams; sometimes quite a bit. You could avoid the hing line with glue and let it naturally wick the rest of the way so it doesn't over stiffen the area.

Having said all of this, I am a big fan of monocoat hinges but if you want to add torsional rigidity to your tail, this is a great way to go and it kills two birds with one stone.