On attaching the canopy to the fuselage I just used 4 servo mounting screws, placed 2 on each side. I just slid the inside piece up under the dash and it just lays inside, over the open area of the fuselage. Many flights and not a problem at all the fuse on mine is ply so the screws have something to grab.

As far as pushers go, remember to make sure your put the prop on the right way, or you wont get max thrust from it. Its an easy thing for nose mounted engine guys to over look!!!

Your right about having to cut the wing if you dont position the engine right. Mine just barely clears the top of the left wing.

Don't forget the little chrome rod that goes in the back of the plane. Its about 1/4 in dia., and is the rear wing rod, I and others have thought about replaceing it with a carbon fiber one to save some weight in the back of the plane.

The tank thing is not a problem with long lines, by using muffler pressure it will work just fine. I have installed tanks with the stopper to the rear but you have to use a long brass tube to reach the other end of the tank and a U shaped piece of brass tubing to route the klunk back to the stopper end of the tank. I have this in my Royal 336 Skymaster and it works just fine. Now granted I don't do wild aerobatics with the Skymaster but this fuel tank setup works great.

A trick I was shown one time makes cowling cut-outs for engines a breeze, Just tape a piece of paper to the fuse well back of the cowling line on the fuse, but long enough to cover the engine cylinder and needle valve. Make the appropriate cuts-outs on the paper and after your satisfied fold it back along the fuse. The take the engine off and place the cowling on the plane and fold the paper back over the cowl. Mark the cowl through the cut-outs on the paper and then remove the cowl and make the cut outs. When you replace the engine back on the plane and put the cowl on the cut-outs and the cylinder/needle valve holes should line right up. I usually make the cowl cut-outs a little smaller than the paper ones then fine trim the cut-outs for a very neat fit. I remember how much trouble the old way off trial and error was. The only thing with the LongEZ is that the cowl tends to overheat the engine as there is no scoop for incoming air, and the cylinder head of the 46 OS's dont stick out enough to get a good airflow so I just fly with out it. I have some ides about adding a scoop but just haven't gotten to do it yet.

Don't play around too much with the CG it may get you into trouble 1/4 inch off is OK but if your 3/4 inch off I'd do what it takes to get it closer. Rube, if your balacned in front of that shown then your nose heavy. If it balances there then when you go back to the place shown in the instructions the nose drops. Remember that it still acts the same in front of the plans CG its nose heavy, behind the plans CG its tail heavy. The canard will have to do a lot of lifting it is nose heavy and it may not fly too great. It may make you have to make longer ground runs to get enough airspeed to lift off. You can read what mine does with the nose gear up and down in the other posts on the LongEZ.not much change in flight but some difference at the CG.

Pete