Mark,

Here are a couple things that work well for me during bagging:

1) I apply epoxy (proSet with slow hardener...thinnest around and doesn't need additional thinning) to pre-sealed skins.
2) I bag the wing core plus skins directly....I use the husk or shuck as holder only. I wouldn't want to compress the whole husk but it would work okay.
3) I Line the outside of the skin with paper towels....creates a vacuum path and presses the bag more completely and perfectly
4) Had to build a larger bag from the stock they offer in the kit by taping pieces together, but leaving one side open for sealing after assembly
5) I tried using the seal material they sent in the kit but didn't care much for it....too hard to remove. I came up with a simple alternative that's truly reusable....Plumber's putty
6) 500 sq inch panel will weigh in at approximately 9 ozs ready for finish...ailerons cut and finished, servo mount in and tube socket in.
7) I have used carbon veil under the skin and it works fine but I've found it isn't realy necessary for the loads the wings carry. Adds about 3/4-1 ozs due to excess epoxy mostly
8) The amount of vacuum that works best for me is around 6-8 in Hg. I keep the vent path clear always. If a scrap piece of plastic gets sucked up in the vent, vacuum is sufficient to crush the foam like a pancake...don't ask how I know.

Having created all kinds of contraptions in the past 35+ years of model building to build foam wings (presses, cantilevered clam shell devices, cement blocks, etc), vacuum bagging is the simplest method yet and the techniques are well worth learning. Good luck and if something needs more explaining, contact me directly

Matt Kebabjian

PS- Perhaps I may save you some aggravation on foam cutting by giving you my source....Lazslo Horvath in PA cuts the best foam bar none. Started using his foam panels about 5-6 years ago and have been impressed with his accuracy and precision