Mark, prepare the hole in the aileron as though it were to accept dowel stock. Substitute the carbon tubing for the wood dowel. BTW, carbon tubing sands a bit easier than wooden dowels, to smoother overall surface.
I typically will countesink the top side of the carbon to accept a flat head 6-32. Threading the carbon tube is straight forward, except the threads have relatively little strength. Or you may just drill out the hole a bit and simply glue the bolt in. I prefer threading and gluing but it's a minor issue. Screw the bolt in from the top until head is bottomed and flush with the top surface.
After the epoxy cures, I bend the bolt forward such that the clevis axis is on the hinge line. I have a bunch of short horns that don't get the hole anywhere near the hinge line so this is necessary for my set-up.
Bolt bending should be done very carefully as to not overstress the threads. I use a 1" long piece of aluminum threaded coupling stock from ACE hardware, thread that onto the bolt nearly all the way, and use the coupler as handle to start the bend. Just a little here, then move the coupler up a little and bend a bit more, and so on, until I am satisfied with the curve in the bolt and things align correctly.
I prefer using coupling stock as the handle rather than pliers. Much easier to control the bend with finger pressure, and doesn't bugger the threads
Hopefully thats clear. If not, let me know
Matt
ORIGINAL: flyintexan
Matt,
In your words.....
"I started using 1/4"x1/8" carbon tubing as the aileron horn mount several years ago and have been very pleased with the result. The hole for the horn is already there and perfectly aligned. I use 6-32 bolts for horns (normally not the hardened variety); never use all-thread in this critical application. Vibration will fatigue all thread. If electric power, then not a problem. "
Can you elaborate on this? Sounds very interesting.
Thanks,
Mark