OP Other members in my club said they had the perfect fix too. That was to take the idle screw out all the way and pitch it in the trash . Set the HS needle and wound up with a mediocer running engine. It's like this --even if you don't have a true LS needle it works about the same. Some carbs you look inside carb throat and see a gap between LS needle tip and spray bar. Now point your index fingers at each other and maintain a 1" gap , move your left finger toward your right finger and you will have to move right finger right to maintain gap. So when you turn a LS needle in a little too far (lean) you will have to turn HS needle out (richer) You have now narrowed gap and at idle where the LS needle almost shuts off fuel the HS has to be richer to force a little more fuel in smaller opening. If you don't richen HS needle you will have enough fuel till you get towards WOT cause you made a smaller gap. Your test at idle with high speed needle doesn't mean a thing because you don't need a maximum amount of fuel. But at WOT you need the maximum amount of fuel. The high and low speed setting effect each other in the total running range and anybody that tells you the low speed setting only effects the bottom 1/3 RPM range or what ever amount they come up with is full of baloney . If that was the case just throw away the LS needles and start engine at half throttle and let go of plane , hit WOT. If most engines LS wasn't set reasonably close they wouldn't even start. I hope I explained this clear enough.