Prole,

Epoxy heated with a heat gun or hair dryer will offgas and this can cause an allergic reaction if you have any chemical sensitivities.

I strongly suggest that the best way to fuel proof is to thin epoxy with straight denatured alcohol, readily available and CHEAP from your Walmart or any paint or hardware store. While you are at Walmart, pick up a good quality artist's paint brush with a thick nap, about 3/4" is a good size. I use a "Plaid" brand 3/4" natural bristle brush "for glazing and painting". It cost under four bucks and has handled the fuel proofing and fiber glassing chores on probably 2 dozen models.

Mix up a small batch of 30 minute epoxy in an appropriate mixing container (I use the plastic fruit cups from the "fruitilicious" brand fruit snacks, which appear to be impervious to both alcohol and acetone). Use an eyedropper or the "by guess and by gosh" method, and drip enough denatured alcohol into it to turn it to the consistency of warm pancake syrup.

Apply it to the area you wish to fuel proof, using the artist's brush. The artist's brush allows you to apply it neatly without bubbles, drips or messes.

Once you have the fuel proofing done, swab out the mixing container with a paper towel and then fill the container with denatured alcohol. Swish the brush in the container untill all the epoxy is off the brush. Run the alcohol down the sink (it wont hurt anything, not even your septic tank) and then wash out the brush with hot soapy water, rinse, and hang it to dry for the next time.

I usually prime all areas to be fuel proofed with cheap equipment gray primer. Then I sand and cover, then I carefully paint all areas of exposed primer with the epoxy, carefully over lapping the edges of the covering. Properly done, the covering will remained sealed forever.