I know there are probably a million other threads about this, but doing a search comes with loads of irrelevant threads. What is a good fuelproofer, that I can Solarfilm over after?

Thanks,

Al

Aldo,

I usually use 30 min. Epoxy thinned down 33% with denatured Alcohol (1/3 alcohol + 2/3 Epoxy). It works best to put on two thin coats. Cover the entire area with the first coat and let dry overnight, sand with 400 grit sandpaper to a nice smooth finish, and apply another thin, even coat.

or...

just paint it with fuel-proof dope, you can get clear dope at any hobby shop and apply it just the same way as epoxy, only use dope thinner to thin it.


Hope this helps, it always works good for me.

T-theprole-

Epoxy thinned with Alcohol is a great way. Get it water thin and then brush it on.

Aldomontoya
{What is a good fuelproofer, that I can Solarfilm over after?}


Balsaright film" May work" or atleast help



Dan Z

I use z-pozy finishing epoxy. One or two layers on the engine compartment, tank compartment and slightly beyond. then apply a thin layer of balsarite along the engine compartment edges for monokote to stick down firmly. monokote sticks better to balsarite than epoxy

Rajul has a good point there.

The Z-Poxy finishing resin from Pacer works really good.

With other 30 or 45 min. epoxys you get millions of tiny air bubbles when you mix or thin it. The Z-Poxy for some reason mixes and thins clear as water and dries really nice, hard and transparent.

I use it pretty exclusively for glassing and fuel proofing and have always been happy with the results.


As Always,
T-theprole-

Many thanks everyone, I've been out the game since I was a kid, and my ol' man took care of that stuff for me, we live on opposite sides of the world now though!

I had a rudder servo get fuel soaked, and did not notice till i hand-launched the plane, and it lasted about10 seconds and locked into full right rudder..........guess what happened. As an 8-year old, it being the first plane i built, i was devistated. But that was not a fuel proofing problem, but rather the fuel-line sprung a leak. I have phobia's about fuel!!!!!!

Al

prole,
you can get the air bubbles out of epoxy by heating it before it cures. After you brush it on use your heat gun on the applied area. This will force the air bubbles out of the epoxy. Helps if you use 30 min epoxy for this so that you have enough time to work the area before it sets.

Wow, thanks Ken,

I'll give that a try. The last time I tried to heat up the epoxy as soon as it cooled it cured and I was left with quite a mess. I think either I didn't heat it up enough to reap the benefits just the side effects or I just plain messed it up.

Luckily it cured into a little ball before I could get it onto the fiberglass, so I didn't mess the plane up...

I never thought to heat it up after I had it in place, thanks for the tip. I'll be sure to let you know how it goes.


As Always,
T-theprole-

Prole,

Epoxy heated with a heat gun or hair dryer will offgas and this can cause an allergic reaction if you have any chemical sensitivities.

I strongly suggest that the best way to fuel proof is to thin epoxy with straight denatured alcohol, readily available and CHEAP from your Walmart or any paint or hardware store. While you are at Walmart, pick up a good quality artist's paint brush with a thick nap, about 3/4" is a good size. I use a "Plaid" brand 3/4" natural bristle brush "for glazing and painting". It cost under four bucks and has handled the fuel proofing and fiber glassing chores on probably 2 dozen models.

Mix up a small batch of 30 minute epoxy in an appropriate mixing container (I use the plastic fruit cups from the "fruitilicious" brand fruit snacks, which appear to be impervious to both alcohol and acetone). Use an eyedropper or the "by guess and by gosh" method, and drip enough denatured alcohol into it to turn it to the consistency of warm pancake syrup.

Apply it to the area you wish to fuel proof, using the artist's brush. The artist's brush allows you to apply it neatly without bubbles, drips or messes.

Once you have the fuel proofing done, swab out the mixing container with a paper towel and then fill the container with denatured alcohol. Swish the brush in the container untill all the epoxy is off the brush. Run the alcohol down the sink (it wont hurt anything, not even your septic tank) and then wash out the brush with hot soapy water, rinse, and hang it to dry for the next time.

I usually prime all areas to be fuel proofed with cheap equipment gray primer. Then I sand and cover, then I carefully paint all areas of exposed primer with the epoxy, carefully over lapping the edges of the covering. Properly done, the covering will remained sealed forever.