RCU Forums - View Single Post - BCX2 Did they fix it?
View Single Post
Old 01-10-2007, 06:41 PM
  #5  
soloboss
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Fort Wayne, IN
Posts: 2,177
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: BCX2 Did they fix it?


ORIGINAL: samtech

Soloboss,
Hey thanks man! I'll do that. Just need to hit the LHS for some more blades.... again. Pretty sure I can handle the loss of stability. Matter of fact that's one of the things I can't stand about the CX, it's too stable. My Trex is a little shaky but I've grow to enjoy it, now I find the CX a little boring and far too tame.
You can actuelly get yours to roll over? It seems that mine won't really roll at all or nose up/down. At full stick forward/roll it seems to have a limit, it gets there and thats it. As fast as it will go regardless of how long you hold it there.
I am so looking forward to applying this mod. Make it handle more like a helicopter and less like a cement truck.
I agree about slowing stick inputs... I know better.... But then again.... I knew better than to fly my trex in the house.... and I certainly knew better than to try and land it on the ceiling inverted too!
Here's something to test your ability.
Outside, when you have a calm spell, try this. Hover the heli at a couple of feet off the ground with the nose pointed in the direction you want to go. Then shove the right stick and the throttle stick forward to the max and watch the little bird rip across the yard. When you have gone far enough, bring BOTH sticks back to center - gently. Your heli should have gained about 20 feet of altitude for every hundred feet it flew away. If all is well, land the heli and shut down the power and let it sit for a few seconds to catch its breath - honestly, the battery will see a significant improvement even if you don't disconnect the battery connector. Now repeat the flight described above, and when it's out about 70 feet and 20 feet up, steer into a LEFT turn with the left (rudder) stick and she'll make a wonderful long arc turn-around. Bring the left stick (rudder) back to straight - then reduce the forward and throttle to mid-range. It's pretty dramatic and will make you look like a pro. And I think that part of the trick is to turn left while accelerating. It's a gyroscopic thing. I don't know that I've ever tried the same thing while turning right. Somebody go try it and let me know.
NOTICE: If you get nervous as it takes off in fast forward, don't just cut the throttle back or it will stick its nose into the dirt. And if you maintain full throttle and cut the forward stick it will go nose straight up, then fall out of the sky. Once you figure out the balance, you can hold the right stick full forward and control the altitude and direction with the throttle stick.
REMEMBER - Left Stick =Throttle = Altitude (and direction the nose points); Right Stick =Pitch (direction the heli flies) & Ground Speed .

I've written a number of articles about my experiments and things that I believed at one time to be true. And sometimes I was wrong. The guys in this forum have always been enthusiastic about my discoveries and polite about my errors. And we all learn.

For the record, the heli that I am flying to do the moves described above is a stock battery, stock motor, stock body (with the rear little horizontal wing removed). I have cut the body and the 4 in 1 case for ventilation and I have the aluminum motor heat sink and aluminum flybar hub / center shaft. My flybar is about 3/8ths inch shorter than stock ON EACH END. My weights are simply 3/16 outside diameter collars from the hobby shop. I use 2 on each end of the flybar and tighten the setscrew in the collars securely. I've flown outside with only one collar on each end but I need more room to maneuver as the performance is increased but the stability is not as good. And I'm still not a very good pilot.
I've worked with this maneuver a bunch and the body on my poor heli shows it. More tape than plastic! Those heavy weights slow the response some, but she'll still surprise you. The secret is to add a bunch of throttle when you push that right stick. The gyroscopic effect seems to be nullified when you change the rpm of the flybar / upper rotor.

I'll gladly accept any input from anyone else on this subject. I know what works for me and I'm still working on the performance aspects of this little heli with only minor revisions to the original design. Yesterday I did what I described above and I went into a long left rudder turn, then added too much left aileron (right stick) and I actually inverted the heli. I have the scratches on the top cover of the aluminum flybar holder to prove it. No, it was not a good landing, but it hit the flybar hub so perfectly inverted that it knocked the outer shaft collar (below the swashplate) out of adjustment and didn't break any blades!