There is nothing in the kits yet. With the YS (and OS) mine was nose heavy. If you are going glow, I would keep everything back. I had everything forward and have added 3ozs to the tail. I forgot where the CG is, so when I get back, I will post it.

Couple things off the top of my head:

If you are using a 2-stroke or 4-stroke with a long pipe, you will want to mount the pipe floor in first.

***Remember to scuff the inside of the fuselage where you are going to be gluing anything in. Use some 220 grit, but be careful not to over do it and sand through the inner layer of glass. Then clean it off with some rubbing alcohol on a paper towel.

Measure your rudder horn from the outer most holes and then use a servo arm that is the same measurement on the outer holes. This measurement is also going to be same coming up from the rear of the fuselage where you will drill holes for the cable exits (if running straight cables). If you cross them, not sure where they will be (back further though).

Horns: if you are using the stock horns, make sure the holes (for pushrod) in the horns are over the centers of the pivot points on the surfaces. For the rudder, the pivot point is where the pin is, not the LE of the rudder. This puts the horn mounted back in the rudder about 1"-1 1/2" deep from the LE. If you put the rudder LE down on a table, the horn doesn't extend past the LE. I will measure mine when I get back. The aileron and elevator horns are probably easier to align over the hinge point because you can sight down it easier.

Screws for stab mounting: There is no locator point on the surface of the stab, but if you look inside the stab root, you will see a “glob” of epoxy over the end of the tube area. This is where you want to drill the hole for the stab screw. I drilled a pilot hole first in the stab without the tube in. Then put the tube in a redrilled the pilot hole through the first part of the tube. Then removed the tube and again redrilled the stab with the correct size hole for the screw used (4-40) and drilled the stab tube out for the same. Sand down the little bulge in the tube after drilling into it so it slips in easily into the stab socket. I used a small piece of sandpaper rolled up to scuff the inside of the tube and a Q-tip with alcohol on it to clean it. Then use a scrap piece of ply with a blind nut and epoxy into the end of tube centering it in the hole you drilled. Make sure to use vaseline, chapstick or some kind of oil in the threads so you don’t glue them closed. When drilling the tube for the other side, make sure the stab is mounted on the first side and hold the second stab all the way on. Getting someone to help hold the stabs against the fuse makes it a bit easier.

Servo mounting is straight forward.

Chin: I used 4 bolts, but others may have a more favorite way.

Canopy: This might be a bit tricky. I used 2 pins in the rear, 2 hooks on the base and a 4-40 bolt in the front. It’s not coming off (yet at least). I did have to drill through the clear canopy for the bolt, so I tape over the bolt hole so air doesn’t get in there when I fly. I have flown one with a hatch latch in the rear and 2 hooks near the front, but it didn’t work because the fuse twisted the canopy off. I think because of the size of the canopy, it will need 4 support/pinned/hooked points. 2 in the rear (half way up is a great place) and 2 near the front. Depending on how you want to attach it (screws, latches…) can also determine if you use the hooks or not. I know this is a bit drawn out, but I don’t think there will be just one right way to mount the canopy. So if you have ideas, post them here and lets see if we can find a best way.

OK, time to go fix the foamies I broke last night then off to warm Champaign... I hear it's almost 25 there. It's only 20 here in MI.