Creative...Take the hub off by removing the stud...Jam 2 nuts together to get it out..
Take the mag rotor off, remove the source coil..Cut the crank flush with the edge of the bearing..Push the seal out of the case, replace it with an aluminum plug....Put the spark coil behind the cylinder where the source coil was...machine a small ring about 1/4 " thick and about 1 5/8 diameter, press it on the front of the case with a dab of Loctite...mill a small slot in it at the bottom to glue a hall sensor in it...drill a 1/4" hole in the bottom of the case for the wires, connect to a C&H ignition circuit...Make a plate from 1/16" aluminum the shape of the crankcase at the rear, screw the circuit to the plate with two 4-40 aluminum screws with a thick gasket between the circuit and the plate...drill another 1/4" hole in the side of the case to run the power wires out, use grommets in both holes to keep the wires from chafing...Machine a 1/4" ring the same diameter as the first one, make it fit the hub...drill a small hole almost at the edge in the bottom of the ring, epoxy a 1/8 x 1/16 magnet in the hole...
Put this ring on the hub so that it's about 1/32 away from the other ring...Put the hub on the crank, do not tighten yet...turn the ignition on, rotate the hub, draw a line acress both rings when you hear the spark...Put the piston on TDC..
Measure the diameter of the ring, multiply by .244...This number is 28 degrees.. Put some Loctite on the taper...Push the hub onto the taper so that it's the number you just got away from the mark on the ring on the case, to the right as you look from the front...Put a 10mm bolt in the spark plug hole to keep the crank from turning, tighten the stud...
Insert the spark plug into the hole, tighten.....test engine...Now is the time to make a new carb rotator block from 3/8" G10 epoxy board to eliminate the bell crank at the throttle connection...
Creative enough ?
Or send it to me, can't put the price on here, Bubbagates will moderate me
The spark coil doesn't just fit in the space, you have to sand the backside of the coil about 1/16' thinner and sand the edges of the mouning tabs to just barely fit...drill 2 #36 holes 1 5/8" apart at the appropriate spot in the case and use 1/4" round spacers to mount the coil...Put nuts on the other side with some Loctite, grind the bolts flush to the nuts for clearance...
Centrifugal force can't throw the magnet out, it's parallel to the crank in the bottom of the ring....
ANY gasser can be converted this way, some are easier if you just do the ring and hub and use a separate box with the ignition in it...I like the ignition in the mount, no dangling wires or RF interference....
G26 on the left, G20 on the right