converting G23
03-26-2007, 12:19 PM
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converting G23
I'm trying to convert my G-23 to CH ignitions.... I have 2 quetions and a drawing to ilustrate 1 of them....
The drawing will probably explain better, but does the magnet get mounted on tdc and the sensor @ 30 btdc??? see drawing please
the other question is.... does the diameter of the hub where the magnet is mounted matter???I'm trying to lighten up the g-23 and the ch system has a extra hub for the rear shaft and i don't want the extra weight.... can I tap the prop shaft that comes with the engine, mount the radio shack magnet and get good results????
thanks
The drawing will probably explain better, but does the magnet get mounted on tdc and the sensor @ 30 btdc??? see drawing please
the other question is.... does the diameter of the hub where the magnet is mounted matter???I'm trying to lighten up the g-23 and the ch system has a extra hub for the rear shaft and i don't want the extra weight.... can I tap the prop shaft that comes with the engine, mount the radio shack magnet and get good results????
thanks
03-26-2007, 12:37 PM
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RE: converting G23
The diamater of the hub takes effect on the precision of the ignition timing, bigger diameter allowes better setting,
but too big diameter will have too high linear velocity of the magnet and then the system might not get well
exitated by that; i.e. all components have to be "tuned" to each other. In general, maybe the best and even the cheapest
is to buy the whole set and instructions for it. By personal experience I can tell that the basic things are not big problem but
if you want to have good performance then secondary effects make sure that you might vaste the whole summer for
setting it properly, and still not get what you wanted i.e. it is as "simple" as playing golf ...
but too big diameter will have too high linear velocity of the magnet and then the system might not get well
exitated by that; i.e. all components have to be "tuned" to each other. In general, maybe the best and even the cheapest
is to buy the whole set and instructions for it. By personal experience I can tell that the basic things are not big problem but
if you want to have good performance then secondary effects make sure that you might vaste the whole summer for
setting it properly, and still not get what you wanted i.e. it is as "simple" as playing golf ...
03-26-2007, 12:48 PM
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RE: converting G23
Triangle,
If I were you, I would use the CH conversion setup as it arrived. It should provide adjustment for the sensor and is a proven design. The magnet needs to pass the sensor when the crankshaft is 28 degrees before top dead center. It doesn't matter where the two items are positioned, just that they creat a spark at the right time. Magnet size and depth of the hole are important considerations. Centifrical force can loosen and throw the magnet if it is not secure enough. Too small of a magnet may lack reliable operation. Good luck.
Dave
If I were you, I would use the CH conversion setup as it arrived. It should provide adjustment for the sensor and is a proven design. The magnet needs to pass the sensor when the crankshaft is 28 degrees before top dead center. It doesn't matter where the two items are positioned, just that they creat a spark at the right time. Magnet size and depth of the hole are important considerations. Centifrical force can loosen and throw the magnet if it is not secure enough. Too small of a magnet may lack reliable operation. Good luck.
Dave
03-27-2007, 05:38 PM
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RE: converting G23
Creative...Take the hub off by removing the stud...Jam 2 nuts together to get it out..
Take the mag rotor off, remove the source coil..Cut the crank flush with the edge of the bearing..Push the seal out of the case, replace it with an aluminum plug....Put the spark coil behind the cylinder where the source coil was...machine a small ring about 1/4 " thick and about 1 5/8 diameter, press it on the front of the case with a dab of Loctite...mill a small slot in it at the bottom to glue a hall sensor in it...drill a 1/4" hole in the bottom of the case for the wires, connect to a C&H ignition circuit...Make a plate from 1/16" aluminum the shape of the crankcase at the rear, screw the circuit to the plate with two 4-40 aluminum screws with a thick gasket between the circuit and the plate...drill another 1/4" hole in the side of the case to run the power wires out, use grommets in both holes to keep the wires from chafing...Machine a 1/4" ring the same diameter as the first one, make it fit the hub...drill a small hole almost at the edge in the bottom of the ring, epoxy a 1/8 x 1/16 magnet in the hole...
Put this ring on the hub so that it's about 1/32 away from the other ring...Put the hub on the crank, do not tighten yet...turn the ignition on, rotate the hub, draw a line acress both rings when you hear the spark...Put the piston on TDC..
Measure the diameter of the ring, multiply by .244...This number is 28 degrees.. Put some Loctite on the taper...Push the hub onto the taper so that it's the number you just got away from the mark on the ring on the case, to the right as you look from the front...Put a 10mm bolt in the spark plug hole to keep the crank from turning, tighten the stud...
Insert the spark plug into the hole, tighten.....test engine...Now is the time to make a new carb rotator block from 3/8" G10 epoxy board to eliminate the bell crank at the throttle connection...
Creative enough ?
Or send it to me, can't put the price on here, Bubbagates will moderate me
The spark coil doesn't just fit in the space, you have to sand the backside of the coil about 1/16' thinner and sand the edges of the mouning tabs to just barely fit...drill 2 #36 holes 1 5/8" apart at the appropriate spot in the case and use 1/4" round spacers to mount the coil...Put nuts on the other side with some Loctite, grind the bolts flush to the nuts for clearance...
Centrifugal force can't throw the magnet out, it's parallel to the crank in the bottom of the ring....
ANY gasser can be converted this way, some are easier if you just do the ring and hub and use a separate box with the ignition in it...I like the ignition in the mount, no dangling wires or RF interference....
G26 on the left, G20 on the right
Take the mag rotor off, remove the source coil..Cut the crank flush with the edge of the bearing..Push the seal out of the case, replace it with an aluminum plug....Put the spark coil behind the cylinder where the source coil was...machine a small ring about 1/4 " thick and about 1 5/8 diameter, press it on the front of the case with a dab of Loctite...mill a small slot in it at the bottom to glue a hall sensor in it...drill a 1/4" hole in the bottom of the case for the wires, connect to a C&H ignition circuit...Make a plate from 1/16" aluminum the shape of the crankcase at the rear, screw the circuit to the plate with two 4-40 aluminum screws with a thick gasket between the circuit and the plate...drill another 1/4" hole in the side of the case to run the power wires out, use grommets in both holes to keep the wires from chafing...Machine a 1/4" ring the same diameter as the first one, make it fit the hub...drill a small hole almost at the edge in the bottom of the ring, epoxy a 1/8 x 1/16 magnet in the hole...
Put this ring on the hub so that it's about 1/32 away from the other ring...Put the hub on the crank, do not tighten yet...turn the ignition on, rotate the hub, draw a line acress both rings when you hear the spark...Put the piston on TDC..
Measure the diameter of the ring, multiply by .244...This number is 28 degrees.. Put some Loctite on the taper...Push the hub onto the taper so that it's the number you just got away from the mark on the ring on the case, to the right as you look from the front...Put a 10mm bolt in the spark plug hole to keep the crank from turning, tighten the stud...
Insert the spark plug into the hole, tighten.....test engine...Now is the time to make a new carb rotator block from 3/8" G10 epoxy board to eliminate the bell crank at the throttle connection...
Creative enough ?
Or send it to me, can't put the price on here, Bubbagates will moderate me
The spark coil doesn't just fit in the space, you have to sand the backside of the coil about 1/16' thinner and sand the edges of the mouning tabs to just barely fit...drill 2 #36 holes 1 5/8" apart at the appropriate spot in the case and use 1/4" round spacers to mount the coil...Put nuts on the other side with some Loctite, grind the bolts flush to the nuts for clearance...
Centrifugal force can't throw the magnet out, it's parallel to the crank in the bottom of the ring....
ANY gasser can be converted this way, some are easier if you just do the ring and hub and use a separate box with the ignition in it...I like the ignition in the mount, no dangling wires or RF interference....
G26 on the left, G20 on the right
03-28-2007, 07:29 AM
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RE: converting G23
WOW!!!!!! the master has spoken.... thank you Ralph.... sure love your conversion... Ive seen them on the post in several forums... and this suggestion is great... Thanks again..... also thanks buck.... tonight I should finish my lite g23 installation on my funtana x....if I don't like the way it flys, I'll probably go with a tuned pipe.... i still can remove more weight on it, and right now with batt (1500 4.8v) Nimh, and ign is 45onz.... I can probably remove another onz and go with a smaller battery, just don't know how much flight time I'll get w/1500 mah probably an 0.8 ah is betterthx guys
03-28-2007, 09:53 AM
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RE: converting G23
Try a 2 oz 800 ma NiMh from superbatterypacks.com, or something like it..Should be good for a few hours...
It will weight under 40 oz when lightened and using the smaller battery...
It will weight under 40 oz when lightened and using the smaller battery...
03-28-2007, 11:07 PM
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RE: converting G23
the one pic of the engine on its side is ralphs conversion,if you do what he said that is what it would look like.if your lazy send it to ralph and it will look like it also.if ya want to do it cheap do it like my 24cc echo.magnet at tdc,sensor at 28 degrees btdc.i made my bracket in a way to adjust the timing if necesary.simplicity without rocket science.dont worry about hub diameter,anywhere from 1 to 2 inchs works perfect.
03-29-2007, 06:39 AM
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RE: converting G23
well..... last night didn't go so good.....ralph will be getting 3 of my motors soon... for him to check and set up.... wanted to take some pictures, but I was really down from not being able to start my engine.... will post once ralph has sent it back did you say 1783 whitehall dr.?????
