ORIGINAL: LT40
Well,
I don't know the brand. They are wooden 10 6's.
When I bought my trainer , I bought 3 spare props
at that time. I'm glad I did.
LT40, Master Airscrew makes both Nylon and WOOD props. Their Wood props are second only to Zinger in lesser aerodynamic quality however they are robust and can take a fair beating. I use them frequently.
At your LHS you will recognize the M/A nylon as most are black in color. They too are fairly healthy props. You may wish to sand off the edges and check the balance as you should ANY prop. Saves small cuts when handling. They market several style of wood props. Use the standard ones for your purpose.
EDITED to add: The 11-5 is far better for a 40-46 trainer than 10-6. Gives you slower landing speed and better TO thrust.
Beginners generally make one maistake that causes a lot of broken props. As you near the ground and slow, you need to constantly increase, AND HOLD the back pressure (back stick elevator) to keep the nose up as the throttle is retarded and airspeed is reduced removing airflow over the elevator which then allows the nose to drop, thus allowing the prop to contact earth as the nose gear bends momentarily backwards like a spring.
Learning to hold that backpressure while still using the ailerons to steer the model is a difficult thing to do. You need to remain conscious of such. Of course if you can learn to revert to rudder steering during the landing phase, the whole thing will be much easier, however holding the backpressure is usually easier.
The LT-40 can fly beautifully, when the elevator is set up to have the elevator at full-up back-stick with a nice 10-12* nose-up attitude, very slow touch-down, with a nice 40-46 engine. BTDT frequently.
BTW, coordinating some rudder in your approaches will assist you in staying on centerline and on the runway. Spend 80% ++ of your flight time for your first 20-25 hours shooting approaches and touch and go landings. The other stuff can wait.
Any Take-off with a turn prior to the first 50 ft. after lift off or when you so direct a turn is OUT-OF-CONTROL. Use rudder and keep those climb-outs straight and shallow until YOU want a change.
Best of luck in your progress.