2120g for an entire model complete without landing gear legs will yield a 10lb even model

Your model from the weights above is 2690g I have found that a model pushing 2500-2550 is the weight limit without landing gear legs. However this weight does include the firewall already glued in place on the above the model. This 2120g also includes the servo trays installed and tank mounts too.

The bottom line difference is 570g from the above numbers. This is 20oz. Make sure you conserve every ounce possible....Absolutely every possible ounce. Add this 20oz to the 10lb model and its 4 oz over weight.

I have a pretty comprehensive spread sheet that goes back to 1999-2000 and based on about 15 different models assembled by myself or buddies and the projected weights are now coming out within 1oz of the predicted on my spread sheet On any of the models I have built recently. This goes back to my Fashion in 1999 and catches other models like a Comp Arf Rev Pro, a couple CA eclipses', a Genesis, Angel Shadow, Beryll, 3 Pinnacles, Astral XXc, Zeque, and the Adventure Bipe. I basically have the spread sheet tuned up to get really close overall weights. The more models that get in entered the closer it gets to actual weights.

The Spread sheet says that your model is 4-5oz over weight as it sits. This is already using many weight saving items like small lipo for RX and lightweight Hydemount. Your wing tube is already pretty light and so on..... Use the heavy batts and so on you might be as much as 6-8oz overweight.

You need to take special care in making sure that everything you do is as light as possible. Of course the uncut canopy will give some weight but its not going to do a full 4-5oz as it only weighs 5.5oz uncut.

Bryan's models always fly well and it will even at the 11lb limit but you need to make weight with it. So work extra hard on your equipment choices and be super careful on every bit of weight you add. Just because its some space aged material doesn't mean its lighter. Get the stuff on the scale and weigh every part. Remake the part 3-4 times and try to get it lighter before you glue it in place. Do a major comparison on the weights and strengths of the parts you add. Minimize silicone fuel tubing, and use aluminum tubing instead its much lighter. Consider a very light tank, If you are using a DZ it doesn't need to hold pressure so a light weight tank from a sport model might work better in weight savings. Super lightweight everything is needed to shave that 4-5oz out of it.

This is not a bash or anything on the model, I would like to get my hands on a Shinden and see how it flies, I'm just crunching the real numbers and have experience doing it with my own models. I'm sharing the experience I have gained in the past few years on these types of models and you need to work hard to get that model to make it. It likley can be done, but I don't want to see you get it all together and then realize its 4-5 or even 8oz over weight. That makes the choices difficult. You can shave weight when assembling that once you do it is difficult to get the excess back out.

Bryan will help you get it... He is way better than I at coming up with creative ideas to shed ozs, and have well engineered pieces. Today's power plants have plenty to carry the legal models. So you won't suffer using a current engine setup, but you need to have it make weight to be in the "Show" Plus the lighter you can get it the better off you be in the future for repairs, and any changes you might make to it over time.

Good Luck with it and keep us posted on how it goes. I'm willing to help offline too just email me and I'll share some ideas with you about getting it lighter. Bryan probably already has a handle on them but just in case.....


Troy Newman