In idle up set your pitch to zero. That should be mid stick. (use idle up)
Verify you swash is level by checking at several points about the rotation of the rotor, if you've been flying you probably have some right trim to compensate for translating, take it out and make sure at the cardinal points you're at 0.

Set the blades fore/aft and give full right aileron and measure the pitch of the main blades. Anything over 7 is over kill for your stated style of flying, you could go 8 but you need to know when to back off collective or cyclic when you start bogging.

If you followed RaptorTech then your atvs will be fine, if they are way over or under 100 then adjust your servo arm lengths accordingly (we are talking a mechanical mix machine here) on a CCPM bird if you have to go way under 50 or way over 60 in the swash menu its time to look at servo arm length.

In most helicopters I have worked on (quite a few) this wont bind the swash in the corner. I set mine up with 8 and it doesnt bind but thats with the Kasama head, I was running 7 with the QuickUK

Turn the blades 90 degrees so they are straight out left and right and set the elevator throw the same way.

In MOST cases you will have more than enough throw for whatever sane flying you want to do long before your swash binds in the corners. (this is one issue I had with the rays dvd set)

Anything over a total of 17 degrees of combined pitch will bog most engines and stall the blades, at the very least, the airfoil becomes grossly inefficent.

I've fixed several slow roll and pitch helicopters for people simply because they had too much throw and were bogging the engine.

As you become proficent at energy management you can get away with more and only use it when you need it, this setup will keep you out of trouble.

For general flying, a cyclic ring is no big deal, I dont run one because its hard to snap roll my Funtana with it on there If you are venturing into piroflips and the like, its a good idea.