The geartrain and gear leverages all have an affect. If the servo was actually loaded to 80ounces, the gears just might not stand the load. Parts are usually designed to the specifications chosen. No guarantees over specs. And the way the power train works in a servo, there is every reason to believe that the servo would give that twice-the-expected load a shot. The way it'd do it is what electric motors do so well and what burns out so many of E-powered model motors. The motor simply sucks whatever battery power is available and strains to give the designed rpm no matter what the load. And if it gets the juice it wants, it gives twice the power it was designed to. And happily melts. That is, unless the gear train pops before the meltdown.

The reason we want to start off with the safe rigging (servo hole inside--horn hole outside) and work from there is a couple of reasons. It's the safe way to start AND it actually lessens the load on the servo. And in that case, the electric motor draws LESS juice than design. And there is less stress on the gears. And all of the servo rotation is more apt to be needed so we get maximum resolution at the TX sticks, so we have more accurate control.

So next time the field expert tells you that you ought to fix a throw with your computer radio, think about it first. If you can change the servo-to-horn connection points to do the same, and doing so will give the better ratio (as shown in the chart), DO IT. It's a win win win situation.