ORIGINAL: jwingnut1
Hey all!
Noob here trying to decide on bolt on or rubber band wing. I am currently building a Goldberg eagle 2 and I am at the wing attachment decision stage. I have a love of Naval Aircraft so I choose a Naval aircraft primary trainer color scheme (International Orange on white. With black nose and wingtips. I'll be using small black and white checker for the bottom of the fuse for orientation). I've put a lot of thought into the look of the plane and I would like to keep it as scale as possible. But because I am a noob with no previous R/C flight time I expect some bumps and bruises. (yes, I will have an instructor)
The manual states that a bolt on wing is more prone to damage than a banded wing. It seems to me that the recommended 14 or more bands would be just as strong as the bolt on version. Any way, I'm looking to balance scale looks with trainer durability. Any suggestions about the bolt on or the color scheme is appreciated.
Bolt-On Wing: Bolt-On is the better. I do not believe in building to crash. I believe in building to fly. I have a trainer kept for initial help for "noobs". It was modified to bolt-on. Bolt-on is more secure, always in the same place, no bands required with no worry if the sun rots them during sitting out for a day, and simply does the job. If I use dowels up front, I always use either TWO large (1/4" or bigger) or one large and two smaller (3/16). Use of one is an accident waiting to happen. For larger machines, two 3/8 will suffice. Remember that a top-wing machine has the entire weight -- multiplied by the G force -- loaded into the mount during maneuvers. EXAMPLE: a 5# aircraft pulling some 7 Gs during a normal loop now weighs 35 lbs. on the wing hold-down. In a quick "OH SHOT" recovery as much as 20 Gs may be pulled. The wing is now supporting 100 Lbs. right on that mounting system.
Rubber Band Easy to use, easy to build. Can be messy to handle. Sun rots them. If you select rubber bands, then disregard the NUMBER od bands. Apply whatever you need to be certain the wing
will not lift away from the fuse when you -- holding under the wing -- give it a good vertical shake. If it does, it will do so during maneuvers and recoveries, thus giving the impression that the radio is glitching. [:-] I use rubber bands on some small sport models, however fewer and fewer, as it kind of boggles the mind just how small nylon bolts can be, yet do a good job. (Like Rodney says.)
COLORS: Your choice of orientation colors will be found wanting when you get airborne the first time. BIG BLACK and WHITE designs under the wing is better. On some gray days, it's all gray no matter what. I strongly suggest that whatever scheme you use to satisfy your desires, that it be vastly different between the wing top and bottom. Blues, reds and such all "blue out" when the machine gets a few hundred feet away. Bright sun makes the colors easier to see, but a little haze and /or clouds and it's a whole 'nother ball PARK not just the game.
Working with many beginners and their personal color choices, well I just let them decide for themselves. Nothing is always for certain, just whatever is best for the individual. If you want to get some ideas just talk to and look at the models of some Competition Pattern Pilots and check their top/bottom wing colors. They really need that instant recognition. OTOH, they have learned that instant eye-form-recognition that comes with flying experience, yet they don't leave colors to taste or chance.
Ever wonder why so many SCALE models crash? IMO, It's NOT the model but that quick-disorientation that confuses the pilot resulting in a longer disorientation for a short time until real-world orientation becomes fact!
[:@]