Hey all!
Noob here trying to decide on bolt on or rubber band wing. I am currently building a Goldberg eagle 2 and I am at the wing attachment decision stage. I have a love of Naval Aircraft so I choose a Naval aircraft primary trainer color scheme (International Orange on white. With black nose and wingtips. I'll be using small black and white checker for the bottom of the fuse for orientation). I've put a lot of thought into the look of the plane and I would like to keep it as scale as possible. But because I am a noob with no previous R/C flight time I expect some bumps and bruises. (yes, I will have an instructor)

The manual states that a bolt on wing is more prone to damage than a banded wing. It seems to me that the recommended 14 or more bands would be just as strong as the bolt on version. Any way, I'm looking to balance scale looks with trainer durability. Any suggestions about the bolt on or the color scheme is appreciated.

I am a strong proponent of using rubber bands on a trainer.

It is not unusual for a trainer to bump a wingtip on a fence, or pole, or whatever and the rubber bands act as a shock absorber.

If you use nylon bolts, I promise that a similar bump will result in a split fuselage.

That having beed said, 14 rubber bands seems a bit extreme to me. I usually use 5 on each side, and then one one each side in a criss-cross manner.

I would also suggest that if you have the option, go ahead and install all of the "Bolt-on" options so that in the future, if you ever decide to switch it, it will be easy to do.

I use 10 total even on my Kadet Senior and have never had a problem. 4 each side and the last two diagonally to lock the others in.
I have never hit a wing but have seen others do it. The wing was usually slightly damaged and no fuselage damage with rubber band mounted wings and have seen extensive damage with a similar hit on a bolt on wing. Rubber bands do help.

As minnFlyer said, set it up for both ways now, but I would reccomend using rubber bands while you are on the uphill side of your learning curve. The trick is to use enough bands, but not so many that you remove the reason for using them in the first place. There will be plenty of time for solid mounting of the wings later on, but right now the name of the game is being able to fly it again. Hope this helps.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Rubber Band it.

Thanks all for the responses.
Banding it is!
I think I'll save the bolt on option for another project. Simply because I dont want to restrict any part of the wing from moving should a strike occur. There will be plenty of time for "fancies" later on. First I have to learn to keep my models from becoming expensive yard darts[sm=cry_smile.gif].

If you use the proper size bolts and have no gap between the fuse and wing, nylon bolts are far better than rubber bands, even for a trainer. On your particular plane, 6X32 Nylon would be more than adequate to retain the wing and; should the inevitable crash occur, the wing bolts will shear with no damage to either wing or fuse caused by the attachment. I use 10X32 on my bigger planes (1/4 scale) and they are more than adequate for up to 15 pound airobatic planes.

I recently bought a Hobbico Super Star Trainer RTF as a club trainer. It came with the rubber-band mount wing and I left it that way.

I also feel that for a beginner, the rubber band way is the best way to go. I would not depend on nylon bolts shearing in the event of a wing stike with something solid.

CGr

Bolt-On Wing: Bolt-On is the better. I do not believe in building to crash. I believe in building to fly. I have a trainer kept for initial help for "noobs". It was modified to bolt-on. Bolt-on is more secure, always in the same place, no bands required with no worry if the sun rots them during sitting out for a day, and simply does the job. If I use dowels up front, I always use either TWO large (1/4" or bigger) or one large and two smaller (3/16). Use of one is an accident waiting to happen. For larger machines, two 3/8 will suffice. Remember that a top-wing machine has the entire weight -- multiplied by the G force -- loaded into the mount during maneuvers. EXAMPLE: a 5# aircraft pulling some 7 Gs during a normal loop now weighs 35 lbs. on the wing hold-down. In a quick "OH SHOT" recovery as much as 20 Gs may be pulled. The wing is now supporting 100 Lbs. right on that mounting system.

Rubber Band Easy to use, easy to build. Can be messy to handle. Sun rots them. If you select rubber bands, then disregard the NUMBER od bands. Apply whatever you need to be certain the wing will not lift away from the fuse when you -- holding under the wing -- give it a good vertical shake. If it does, it will do so during maneuvers and recoveries, thus giving the impression that the radio is glitching. [:-] I use rubber bands on some small sport models, however fewer and fewer, as it kind of boggles the mind just how small nylon bolts can be, yet do a good job. (Like Rodney says.)

COLORS: Your choice of orientation colors will be found wanting when you get airborne the first time. BIG BLACK and WHITE designs under the wing is better. On some gray days, it's all gray no matter what. I strongly suggest that whatever scheme you use to satisfy your desires, that it be vastly different between the wing top and bottom. Blues, reds and such all "blue out" when the machine gets a few hundred feet away. Bright sun makes the colors easier to see, but a little haze and /or clouds and it's a whole 'nother ball PARK not just the game. Working with many beginners and their personal color choices, well I just let them decide for themselves. Nothing is always for certain, just whatever is best for the individual. If you want to get some ideas just talk to and look at the models of some Competition Pattern Pilots and check their top/bottom wing colors. They really need that instant recognition. OTOH, they have learned that instant eye-form-recognition that comes with flying experience, yet they don't leave colors to taste or chance.
Ever wonder why so many SCALE models crash? IMO, It's NOT the model but that quick-disorientation that confuses the pilot resulting in a longer disorientation for a short time until real-world orientation becomes fact! [:@]

My trainer had a bolt on wing. I never crashed it or plopped it down in a way that the wing would even have a chance of coming off. However I've seen enough new guys put the plane in in some very interesting ways and wonder how on earth did they do that. So I'd say go for the ugly rotting rubber bands but if possible build it so it can be bolted on too. Overall (mostly after your trainer) I agree with hossfly on building to fly and not to crash. Still get a durable trainer just don't get a indestructible trainer that flies like a brick. Plus if you learn well you will not crash too often. Well except till you started hovering 5' off the ground.