Capt,

that isn't a very good name for a guy asking questions in the engine forum?

The mount should be fine. The GP and H9 kits tend to have better than average hardware so I'm assuming the mount supplied if its for a 91-120 size engine will be fine.

For the fuel dots and "T" go to Central Hobbies. The aluminum "T's are better as they will not get old and crack from vibration and the glow fuel.

They have some Tettra "T" with filters in them. So you point the filter side to the engine then filling and defueling the dirt or crap will stay on the tank side of the fuel system. You you can just sue a normal T and use a separate filter between the "T" and fuel dot and the engine. This is what I usually do. Its easier to pull the filter and flush it out or change it than to try to unhook the "T" fitting.

http://www.centralhobbies.com/Fuel/fuel00.htm

Tank...you will likely be OK with the stock tank. The YS engine pressurize the tank to about 6-10psi. With about 10psi being the highest they will likely ever see. This of course will depend on the engine. The 110FZ-S has a higher pressure than the older version 110FZ. If the tank is a little weaker or to be safe wrap the tank with some nylon filled strapping tape. About 3 bands spaced out around the middle section of the tank will help keep the tank from expanding a bunch under pressure.

Tettra tanks are the standard I use to measure the others. They cost a little more but never had one fail, and they are easier to get into if you need to change out a pickup line or the likes. The rubber stopper has a clamp on the outside that lets you control the tension on the stopper...You can actually see what is going on. As opposed to some other tanks with the rubber bung that gets pinched in the middle and you can't see the backside. Also over time the rubber bung style will deform and it makes it really tough to get it apart, you nearly have to rebuild the entire tank. The tettra is worth the extra money to me for this reason.

As for tank size to get a 12min flight at mostly full power....oh baby....I don't know if you can fit the size in that small model. I currently has a 110S with a 20oz tank. I'm getting 15-17mins of flight time but am not nearly going full power most of the time. I would say a 16-20oz tank will approach the 10min-12 min mark. After the engine gets broken in and is a leaned out a little. When the engine is new and running a little extra rich I would say it will probably not make 12mins might get 9-10mins.

The YS engines can really make a ton of power but this means they are hungry for fuel. A 16oz tank should be good for at least 10 probably more if you are about 60-70% full power in the flight. there are many factors that will decide this...

There may be someone on here that has experience with this model and the engine. to me it looks like a great combo. Although I have not seen one setup this way. I'm sure somebody looking at this will have experience with the setup.

You might also try the Great Planes ARFy forum


ONE NOTE: on the tanks tettra makes a Bubbless tank and the crank tank. The crank tank is the normal one that is the one you want. The bubbless has a rubber bladder in it. They can work very well, but tend to be a pain to setup. Also after time the bladder will start to leak. This makes for a mess and a real pain. The bladder tanks work great in certain applications like Pylon racing where you only carry so much fuel because the lighter the model the faster it will go. In this case it competition stuff and the guys are replacing tanks and such every so often to make sure they don't have a problem. There are also some heli guys that I have known to use the bladder tanks. The wild 3D stuff they do and the bladder collapses as the fuel is drawn out so there is no air bubble to get in the line while doing the wild stuff they do.

In a sport flying application or in other forms of competition the crank style or normal fuel line and clunk in the bottom of the tank works great.

Troy Newman
Team YS