I've got a Great Planes Little Toni that is being assembled right now and a 110FZ waiting to be dropped in. I have a few basic questions, which I'm sure have been answered in other threads, so I apologize.

I'm assuming the engine mount that comes with this plane is insufficient for this engine. What mount would all you experts reccomend?

I've also seen the diagram of the basic fuel line system. Where is the best place to order the fuel dots and T's from and should I order a different fuel tank? The tank that comes with the plane feels really thick and strong but I don't know if it's up to the task. How large of a tank should I get for a YS110 (assuming quite a bit of full throttle flying) to get a nice 10-12 minute flight?

Anyone have a Little Toni out there with this power plant and have any input? Thanks for any all suggestions.

Capt,

that isn't a very good name for a guy asking questions in the engine forum?

The mount should be fine. The GP and H9 kits tend to have better than average hardware so I'm assuming the mount supplied if its for a 91-120 size engine will be fine.

For the fuel dots and "T" go to Central Hobbies. The aluminum "T's are better as they will not get old and crack from vibration and the glow fuel.

They have some Tettra "T" with filters in them. So you point the filter side to the engine then filling and defueling the dirt or crap will stay on the tank side of the fuel system. You you can just sue a normal T and use a separate filter between the "T" and fuel dot and the engine. This is what I usually do. Its easier to pull the filter and flush it out or change it than to try to unhook the "T" fitting.

http://www.centralhobbies.com/Fuel/fuel00.htm

Tank...you will likely be OK with the stock tank. The YS engine pressurize the tank to about 6-10psi. With about 10psi being the highest they will likely ever see. This of course will depend on the engine. The 110FZ-S has a higher pressure than the older version 110FZ. If the tank is a little weaker or to be safe wrap the tank with some nylon filled strapping tape. About 3 bands spaced out around the middle section of the tank will help keep the tank from expanding a bunch under pressure.

Tettra tanks are the standard I use to measure the others. They cost a little more but never had one fail, and they are easier to get into if you need to change out a pickup line or the likes. The rubber stopper has a clamp on the outside that lets you control the tension on the stopper...You can actually see what is going on. As opposed to some other tanks with the rubber bung that gets pinched in the middle and you can't see the backside. Also over time the rubber bung style will deform and it makes it really tough to get it apart, you nearly have to rebuild the entire tank. The tettra is worth the extra money to me for this reason.

As for tank size to get a 12min flight at mostly full power....oh baby....I don't know if you can fit the size in that small model. I currently has a 110S with a 20oz tank. I'm getting 15-17mins of flight time but am not nearly going full power most of the time. I would say a 16-20oz tank will approach the 10min-12 min mark. After the engine gets broken in and is a leaned out a little. When the engine is new and running a little extra rich I would say it will probably not make 12mins might get 9-10mins.

The YS engines can really make a ton of power but this means they are hungry for fuel. A 16oz tank should be good for at least 10 probably more if you are about 60-70% full power in the flight. there are many factors that will decide this...

There may be someone on here that has experience with this model and the engine. to me it looks like a great combo. Although I have not seen one setup this way. I'm sure somebody looking at this will have experience with the setup.

You might also try the Great Planes ARFy forum


ONE NOTE: on the tanks tettra makes a Bubbless tank and the crank tank. The crank tank is the normal one that is the one you want. The bubbless has a rubber bladder in it. They can work very well, but tend to be a pain to setup. Also after time the bladder will start to leak. This makes for a mess and a real pain. The bladder tanks work great in certain applications like Pylon racing where you only carry so much fuel because the lighter the model the faster it will go. In this case it competition stuff and the guys are replacing tanks and such every so often to make sure they don't have a problem. There are also some heli guys that I have known to use the bladder tanks. The wild 3D stuff they do and the bladder collapses as the fuel is drawn out so there is no air bubble to get in the line while doing the wild stuff they do.

In a sport flying application or in other forms of competition the crank style or normal fuel line and clunk in the bottom of the tank works great.

Troy Newman
Team YS

Troy, thanks for great info and speedy reply.

The deadstick moniker came from a buddy. We both fly lots of slope and recently got back into power about a year ago. My first attempt at engine tuning resulted in a handful of engine cut-outs in mid flight...but hey, I can now land a plane deadstick better than anyone else at the field!

All your info is a big help. I think the engine mount that comes with the plane is good up to a .90 ish four stroke? I will double check. If I opt for a new mount should I look into something with a rubber mount to help with vibration? Also, do you have a link to the best thread for breaking in the 110FZ for the newbie? Thanks again Troy.

John

CD:

Have had a little Tony. They are decent flying sport airframes, you will enjoy it. It is quick enough, but not what I would call fast even with a Jett engine in it. Do not expect to be outrunning everyone except other sport airframes. I have destroyed several tanks with the the ys pressure, they were junk tank that came with the plane. Those hve inproved but not on par with the say Sullivan or DuBro tanks. If you use the stock tank, buy a small Dubro or sullivan tank and use the end stopper and fuel lines from that, The stoppers are the primary problems with the Chinese tanks. I have YS 63, 110, and 120, love them all. Stay with OS F plugs. Have always used Power Master 15% in all my stuff with no problems so I can have one standard fuel. Principally fly 3D with the YS engines. Am seeing more and more 4 strokes in speed applications with success. I don't have the heart to wind these little guys up that hard and expect them to be reliable long term, but thats just me. Keep them smokeing and valves adjusted correctly, and you should not have problems. ENJOY

rmenke, I'm planning on buying one of the Troy reccomended tanks. I want to remove as many variables as possible to avoid problems with my 1st foray into 4 strokes. I have to admit I'm a bit intimidated by the YS engine. Seems like for every guy who tells me they are a no brainer to get running there is someone else saying I'm crazy and I'll have tons of problems. I guess everyones got their opinion. From what I've researched and heard...you can't beat the power.

I'm not looking to break any speed records but I am hoping this combo will have me just squeak past 100mph???

Did you reinforce with some glass the inside of your firewall on your Toni?

As far as setup and running goes...the YS engines are a little more complicated to setup. They work differently than normal engines. The pressure system and the super charger are what make them what they are. Its just a different learning curve is all it is. Some guys understand what they are doing and making the changes are easy. Other guys are just turning the screws and they are the ones that have trouble. I try to explain what the symptom is and why the result is what it is...This way if something similar happens you know what to look for. Its not always the same smoking gun...but if you know its an air leak...then you can address the specific areas that could be the cause. Once you understand how things are working its usually pretty easy to see the solution or fix a problem.


YS engines are high performance machines. As such they can be a little temperamental if they are setup correctly. Once you have them correct its rare to touch them and they just run and run.

Cube for Cube they are the most powerful engines out there. Even against the 2 strokes. I personally the think the 1.20 two strokes and the YS 110 are comparable power wise. The YS 110 has a bit of an edge power wise on the saito 125.

As for the the Glow plugs the OS #F and the YS plugs are the exact same plug OS makes them for YS. These are the only plugs to use...this takes the guess work out of it.

The instructions are pretty good with the engine, and if you have questions we'll be happy to help you out.

good luck with it. One quick note on the usual first beginner mistake DON"T use any of those fuel filler valves. The ones with the probes that the probe inserted means it flow tot he tank and with the probe removed it flows tot he engine. They do not seal well enough. This combined with the YS pressure system of about 6-8-10psi in the tank...these little valves will leak I promise. This is why to use "T"s and fuel dots. Then its a closed system. Next thing always remember to release the pressure in the tank first before you try to fuel the tank back up. YOU will out of habit pull the fuel dot or the supply line off first. I can warn you 100 times and you will still do it. We have all done it. With 8psi in the tank it will shoot the fuel about 10ft away. So get ready to apologize tot he buddy pitted next to you the first time....It will happen.

Troy Newman
Team YS