ORIGINAL: kx_maduk
does any one know a set of good brakes that i can purchase in the UK?
i didnt think my st brakes were that bad , but once running around the track they really are ****
and help on were to get better disks/ pads in the UK would be greatly apprechiated .
Here you go, quick fix.
ORIGINAL: sn00p
Many Thanks for all the replies. I managed to get Kyoscho plates and swapped them out, also replaced springs with tubing and then put a hitec 645MG hi torque servo (huge torque) Result brakes still naff..... Wasnt too happy as i had now spent around £50 trying to sort the braking issue. Spoke with the guy in the shop and he mentioned about setting the links up etc to my reply of being do you think im stupid (well it turns out YES i am stupid). I noticed no matter what servo your using it only moves a small amount in the brake direction due to the trigger configuration. So i noticed that the pads where very slack on the discs. Tightened them up so i had around 1.5mm gap and Hey presto i have EXCELLENT stopping power. So for anyone else having braking issues of which ive seen so many threads just tighten the brake pads/disc mounts up up on the vertical pillars (2 screws per set of pads) to close the gap, hence the servo has to travel less to get friction and it will REALLY bite. So ive now ripped the Hitec servo back out and used that for the steering. and Put the original fast servo back in for the throttle. Put the springs back in and removed the tubbing and im now more than impressed.
Shame i wasted the money on the servo but i guess its always good to have a decent spare. I could prolly get most of my money back on ebay if i really needed as the original MG servo for the steering is fine to be honest. I also reckon you could get good results with the original discs rather than buying the cradocks (£6 for a pair) if your on a tight budget or dont have time but the cradock discs REALLY do give it a nice bite.
I just undo the brake rods by removing the stoppers on the servo end and slide rods out. Pop the rod off the carb slide (ball joint) Remove air filter. Now undo the 4 screws holding the top plate over the diff. Remove top plate followed by the brake pad towers. This will give you access to the diff so you can just pull it up and remove the centre dog bones to gain acces to the cups where the discs sit.
Make sure you screw the pad screws so you have ONLY a small 1-2mm gap to let the discs run free. Also make sure you locate propely in the slot on the base chasis. you'll see the bottom of the discs kinda sit in a channel.
Sounds difficult but really is a 10 min job to swap the discs out.