ORIGINAL: *JCB*
ya, i'm using ultracoat. It's a lot easier to work with than monokote in my opinion. The adhesive on the back is a little less tacky than monokote, but that's a small con that is heavily outweighed by the pros.
Also, plan out your throttle linkage. It's a little funny with the saito 100. The throttle arm on the carb is exactly even with the side of the motor mount which makes things a little difficult. The throttle arm is also a little high, but if you turn it around to be on the lower side of the carb, it hits the motor mount! [:@] I am going to use a 180 deg bend in mine coming thru the fire wall about 1.5" below the throttle arm, i hope it works! I'll post a pic of mine when i get it setup
Also, i'm not sure if you have you fuel tank yet, but the dubro 14oz fits perfectly. It slides in and out without any problems - no need for a fuel tank hatch. Be sure to plan this one out too, i'm sure glad i did!!
Agree on the UC being a bit easier to use. I have both in my shop, and will likely use the UC on the HOG. I had the same throttle problem with my SSE and a Saito .56. I used the 180 degree pushrod method and it worked just fine. Let me know and I'll snap a pic if you want. Its not the most elegant solution, but it works.
I did purchase the Du Bro 14oz tank. I will however be fabricating a hatch. Maybe I'm just paranoid, or enjoy over-engineering the solution [8D] , but I just feel better having a hatch to get the tank in/out - and provide some much needed space should I ever need to get my meaty hands in there! I see this is where SIG suggests putting the receiver and the landing gear bolt in under the tank too.
I need to get this figured out ASAP as I am right there on the plans/assembly. The directions say to glue F1A to the back of the firewall to support the stringers. I did NOT do this. I figure this piece will be the front of the tank hatch. I will have to fabricate a back piece (likely a mirror of F-2) that will sit in front of F-2. I am thinking of attaching the F1A piece with 2 or 3 small dowels (glued onto the firewall) and rare earth magnets to hold on the back. I am certainly open to suggestions if there's a better way!!!
-MA