ORIGINAL: flyX
Put a sheet of ply in front..and a piece behind if you want.
Then use tri on the side...then epoxy the heck of out of it.
but drill the mounting holes as close as you can to the former.
bascailly have the bind nut almost touching the former.
So bascailly the center of the wheel is slighty forward of the leading edge.
The former will also act as a support, kind of like the Savage's chassis vertical plate design
That's the way i did mine. No crazy bounces.
Even the 4* design is more forward than that.
Too farward will cuase the model to bounce.
Not enough foward will cuase the model to nose over and kill your prop.
The con of mounting the screws in front is...you have to cut the screws so they don't punture
the tank. If you have a drimel...no biggy.
if you don't...drill the holes as close as you can to the former, behind it.
It'll be okay..my Ace 4-40 (shoulder wing ) was like that. It didn't nose over
so, your saying to split the difference. good idea. and that way i could put 2 screws in front and 2 behind the former. i think that might work the best as it would put the mains right at the leading edge. wonder why nobody else came up with that. i went through alot of posts with the search feature. and i came up with some good info and pics, but nobody split it like that. it was either in front or back. so you say that's how you did it, and it works great?