ORIGINAL: Bob Pastorello
Tim - very nicely done, clean and neat.
Couple of things;
1. Do you have adequate "exit" openings in the bottom rear of the cowl? Even with the front of the fins exposed, without adequate "exit" openings, you will have heating problems.
2. Distance from firewall/carb intake opening. Many of us have found that we get better performance and smoother transition, consistency of throttle if the intake hole is cut in the firewall so the carb can breathe better. Yours looks very close.
3. Secure the hall sensor connection where it plugs into the wire going to the module. String, dental floss, fancy clips, whatever, but those need to be setup so they won't unplug themselves. Same with battery and module power input wires wherever they are at.
Really a very nice install.
Hi Bob. Thanks!
1. Airflow exit - The aft edge of the bottom of the cowl is already cut back quite a bit. It comes from the factory this way. I think it should be sufficient.
2. Space between carb and firewall - I was wondering about that. The current space is whatever it would be with the stock standoffs (about 1/4"?).
3. Wire connections - if you look in the photo you can see the conection on the top of the engine box is secured with heat shrink tubing. Then, the tubing is tack-glued into place with a few drops of medium CAsame for the other connection that goes to the switch.
I've got awesome templates for mounting the engine and a few other things, but I can't upload them to this site because they are PDF. I'll see if I can have them converted. I'll PM them to you right now.
Thanks again!
Tim