I read on another thread, you can just hammer the bind nuts out if you cut the head of the screws.
Since you removed the tank that shouldn't be a problem.

I sheeted the rear deck, extended the rudder and , and install a semi scale scale tail wheel assembly on mine.
By putting the battery pack in the fuel tank compartment I didn't have to add lead to the nose to keep it balance.
I wish I can find the plans to give you the CG.
Don't put the pack in the tank area just becuase i did.

You can try cutting the metal tube a little bit. The tube bottoms out. Spray spam to give it a little lube.
The gap on mine was from the inner or the root ribs not being perfectly even.
It didn't effect the model flying character.

You can dial out/in the throw, If it's still too much for you on low rate...I love PC TX.lol
That's why i recommended you still use a buddy chord or have an instructor next to you.
This way you'll have a general idea how the model flies then adjust the throw accordlingly.
The recomemded low rates was still a bit much for me . My model was a bit nibble becuase I set my CG farther back.
I lowered it a little bit at a time after each test flight to dial in the model.

Than again...I added more airleron or max it out ...as far as my servo will let me on the High rates.