ORIGINAL: BOUND_4_HELL
Hi doublesixes
I did the leaver adjustment to mine >> Things to be aware off >> be very careful with the little spring it is very squirmy and will zing out or your fingers fairly easy. I lost mine for about 5 minutes on one adjustment; I was lucky to find it. After that experience, I left the metering leaver and the spring attached to the carb base. I used two very tiny screwdrivers to bend the leaver into the correct position; you need to be very careful using the tiny screwdrivers, as you may damage the pop off needle, if you put too much pressure on it.
If you set the metering leaver too low you may run the float cavity dry and your engine will quit. Run it on the ground at full throttle for a couple of minutes to see if it will run without running out of gas, be careful not to overheat your engine.
Also do a spark plug test to see if you are running to lean.
Geppino
Geppino.
I was messing with the needles today and looks like I can lean the idle a bit and still have it reliable. It still burbles in the low/mid range but occasionally. I think I will continue fine tuning it tomorrow. One thing that I tried, is to let the engine idle at 1720 rpm for about 20 secs then throttle up in an instant. If there's no hesitation and instant response, then it most likely will behave OK in flight. If, on the other hand it shows the faintest sign of hesitation or responds slower than instant, the engine may quit in the air.
I fly a very light plane and I'd say that 30% of the time, my engine is idling because of my flying style so I'm at a higher risk of deadstick than pilots that run their engines in their mid to high ranges. I need instant response from idle since I'm doing (or trying) 3D stuff close to the deck. Fortunately I had all my flameouts 2 mistakes high!