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Old 09-01-2008 | 08:16 PM
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yoster
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From: Fresno, CA
Default RE: Duratrax Nitro Evader

Here is all the information you need to know about the Evader.

Background info about myself; I've had the truck for about 5 years now, have replaced nearly every single thing on it at one time or another, and have enough spare parts to build 3 of them from scratch (not that that means anything; just that I have a lot of experience with it).

My synopsis:

The Good:
Motor: Whoever said the stock motor isn't good is drunk. An excellent RTR motor. It is ABN, so it won't last quite as long as an ABC, but I honestly have no issues with it whatsoever. I don't run the truck a ton, so I'm only on my 2nd motor, but both have faired well. In fact, it's probably the only good thing about this truck in stock form, other than the threaded shocks, which someone also mentioned earlier. Those are a welcome feature. The motor is also very lenient as to what fuel you use. I can throw anything in it; currently using 15% powermaster airplane fuel because it's extremely cheap. It has WAY more oil than you need, but the truck still runs fine with it (for bashing anyway).

The Bad:
Rear Differential: This thing is absolute junk. The gears in there are WAY too soft and go out left and right. Replace this with the hardened aluminum upgrade and you will never need to worry about it again.

Rear Shock Tower: It is UNBELIEVABLY weak compared to similar models. I would strongly recommend replacing it with one from a T-MAXX. Yes, this does work, and it's all I ever run. It is a 100% direct drop-in replacement, despite what other morons on here will tell you (a note on that; beware as to who you listen to for advice; I have wasted several hours trying something that some kid says will work, only to find out that it is absolutely impossible). Once it's in place, drill two small holes in the top to mount body-mount screws (AE makes them). Now you will have one beefy rear shock tower that is substantially more durable than the duratrax one.

Stock Steering Servo: Junk. No other way to put it. The servo saver isn't all that great either, as any small bump, no matter how loose it is, causes the servo to strip. Replace ASAP with a metal geared servo, or you'll find yourself racking up the bill for replacement plastic gears (5 bucks a pop).

Front knuckle arms: Replace with aluminum. Design of the truck causes the front rims to rub the arms, eventually weakening them and causing to break.


Things I haven't had any issues with in 5 years:

There are a few things about the truck I just haven't had to worry about. This includes the front shock tower, the clutch shoes, spur gears (I've only stripped a handful in all this time, not bad!), fuel tank (people complain about it; I haven't had any issues).


Speed?:
Speed-wise, in stock form, it's quick off the line but has a very limited top-end of about 32mph. A gear-change to the BX spur will get you about 5mph more, and installing Masher tires will bring you to about 45mph. Install the BX pinion to get a hair more, maybe 48mph? Don't listen to people who claim this truck will do 50mph out of the box; it flat out isn't true.

With the Mashers and BX spur gear, it is still quick off the line and still able to wheelie with a good tune. My brother in law has a Revo 3.3; The Revo beats it off the line, Evader comes back mid-way through the power band, and they both have a 100% identical top-end when the Evader is running the BX spur and Masher's. That said, when we're bashing, the extra power of the 3.3 keeps the truck running closer to 45mph in most terrain; the Evader, when geared like that and running mashers, is using a decent amount of its power just to turn those big wheels, thus resulting in a lower average speed. It can do it, it's just not as "angry" as the Revo. In stock form however, the Evader simply won't keep up on the top-end with other trucks (save for trucks such as the Traxxas Sport). It's all geared for acceleration in stock form.



Conclusion
After several upgrades, I finally have this truck in a nice workable and durable form. It's fun to drive, handles relatively well, and is fun to throw oversized tires on and bash around. Would I buy it again if I could do it all over? NO-WAY. Avoid at ALL cost. There are other trucks out there that are FAR better for the same amount of money. I've spent hundreds in upgrades to get this truck where it should have been out of the box. I would personally recommend the HPI Firestorm, XTM X-Cellerator, or RC10GT2. If you are looking for something that you will not competitively race, opt for the Firestorm, only because of it's reputation for durability.


Recommended minimum upgrades if you DO purchase it:

Metal-gear steering servo
T-MAXX rear shock tower (don't even bother with using the stock one; it will break ending your fun very early)
Upgrade tranny and differential gears; change to hardened aluminum (very important upgrade)

That's really it for the minimums, aside from basic track stuff like a hump pack and whatnot. I would recommend front and rear aluminum knuckle arms, but you can get by for awhile without them.

Any questions, PM me.