ORIGINAL: krproton
Scott (dlenginesaustralia),
thanks for the pics and the instructions. Wonderful!
Couple of questions;
1. Why in the world is the bearing lock used on the woodruff key and the front hub? For the bearings I understand it's to keep them from spinning in the case or on the crank, but why on the key and front hub?
2. Well, I guess a comment, not a question. When I was disassembling my engine, when I got to the key it didn't look like the one in your photos. Althought it was difficult to tell for sure because I never got it out of the crank, it was black and looked just like a piece of sheet metal or something. It seemed to be fairly soft metal as when I tapped it with a hammer via a screwdriver it just kind of dented and deformed easily. The key in your photos looks like the good kinds that I've seen that come with O.S. engines. Wonder what was the deal with mine.
3. This one's a question; Apparently, you are using the stock DL bearings. But do you ever use or do you recommend any kind of "super bearing" like something available from Boca Bearing or another bearing supplier? I get the idea that while suitable, maybe the DL bearings are "standard issue," but one could get even better bearings if desired.
Oh well, I'll have a new crank assy. coming soon, so when I put it all back together I'll have a brand new bottom end so it will all be clean. Gotta run out and get the bearing seal this weekend so I have everything ready when the parts arrive.
Oh yea, I made a hub holder tool like yours only out of 1/4" plywood. Worked fine for removal.
Thanks again!
Tim
No worries!
I dont really see the big need for the loctite on the hub/woodruf key either.
They come like that from DL so we are just keeping with thier standard. Though the woodruf key on this one seemed to be loctite free. The woodruf key is pretty soft and does end up with a dent in it when removing, but if just can tap once or twice vertical enough to move/free it, then tap it out at an angle away from the crank (rather than down) it seems to pop free with any further damage. Comes out easier if you warm it up with the heat gun too. If you give it too much with the screw driver it dents/deforms.....maybe this is the reason for the loctite on the hub/shaft to help reduce the twisting load on the key when things warm up maybe?
The bearings that come standard with the DL's have been good bearings, originally they where F.A.G bearings from germany, but now they have a Japanese (made in Germany) koyo on the front and a F.A.G brand bearing on the rear. They are good bearing (which is one of the areas the DL differs from some other engines out of China) and I havent seen the need to change to something else. Going super high spec I dont think will gain much, except to lighten you wallet.
Hub holder out of ply does the trick, thats what I made the first "prototype" out of and easy to do with a prop jig & spade bit. Good point!