The position of the wires at the wing tip leadout determines how the plane flies, either nose in or nose out (yaw), and is more or less a straight line between the centres of the two wires at the wingtip through the CG of the model. It doesn't matter where the bellcrank is located. It's desireable to have a slight sweep back of around 1 1/2 degrees which means the centre between the leadouts should be slightly behind the CG. This is easy to see by just hanging the model evenly by both the leadouts and looking for a slight nose down attitude of the fuselage. That's what's showing in the first photo. Looking at that photo it's easy to imagine that if the leadouts were further forward on the wingtip then the nose wouldn't be pointing down as much.

But then there's the next trick. In the photo the model is suspended evenly by both the up and down wires the same as in level flight. However, when you're doing a loop or any other manoeuvre then there's a different force on each wire. Say you give full up, then there's more strain on the up wire but an equivalent amount less on the down wire. That shiftes the average position that determines what angle the model hangs to the CG so the yaw attitude in flight will change. To make that change as small as possible the two leadout guides should be as close together as practicable. With your leadout guide having 6 holes you'd have to choose the two closest holes that also gives the correct yaw angle. The trouble is you can only find that when the model is completely finished and ready to fly by checking exactly where it balances then fixing the leadout guide to give that roughly 1 1/2 degrees sweep back.

The better way is by using an adjustable lead out guide like in the other two photos where you can simply slide the guide in a groove by loosening the clamping screw. The one in the photos is just a roughy I made up for that basic stunt trainer I made for my son and the two lines should really be a bit closer together but it's good enough for the purpose.