a few things to note..

your mechanics do not appear to be centered on the aftermarket landing gear: the heli isn't going to take off straight up

the landing gear is very low: you may be prone to the tail fin striking the ground when you come in on an auto or fast landing. if the landing is hard enough and the ground hits the tail fin, this could cause damage

make sure you load check your receiver pack after EVERY flight! 1000mah is typically worth 2 flights, beyond that and the battery's capacity may be questionable. I'd recommend stepping buying a pack with as much capacity as you can afford. Batteriesamerica.com has a AA HR-3U 2700mah 4.8v pack for $28 with Futaba connector installed, or for less, a 2100mah pack with connector for $22. These are NiMH packs, while they have a higher internal resistance and self discharge, they have higher capacity then NiCD and if you load check them before you fly and charge them when you're all done for the day they'll last a good long time. I see a lot of people skimp on battery capacity and while most will get lucky and never have a problem, some people aren't so lucky.

if by chance you can't afford another receiver pack, just load check the battery before every flight and make sure its ok. I'd also recommend finding a Futaba load checker (bsr-2000 i think is the part number), you may be able to find one used. I have this tool and it works great from all 4.8, 6 and 7.2v packs.

as far as the antenna goes you can:
- you'll run the antenna down the opposite side of the heli from the muffler
- get two ball link ends (Hirobo ones are good for this)
- get two screws (Hirobo small silver cap head screws that are used to attach the link balls from the EX helis are good)
- drill one hole each in landing strut for the screws
- thread screws down through the strut and into the link ends
- run your antenna wire and tube through the link ends
- get a length of fuel tube that will act as a stand-off from the book or boom support and run a long, thin tie-wrap through the tube, around the boom support, back through the tube (it'll be tight, but will work), and then around the antenna tube and cinch tight and clip of the remainder with flush cutters
- all done

eventually, when and if you switch to 2.4GHz all this antenna routing stuff will have gone the way of the dinosaur

enjoy!