The manual isn't so bad once you've actually followed the directions. What they refer to in the manual as "4 cycling" is a misnomer that has become common. What they are talking about is an engine that is running so rich, its only firing every other cycle. You must have the glow igniter connected to achieve this. It is essentially a mode where you are providing far more lubrication than normal at a much lower operating temperature than normal. Essentially force fitting the piston and cylinder.

There are two schools of thought on this, and I'm sure you'll hear from both. One school says follow the manual exactly. Its what the manufacturer recommends. The other school says by doing that you're unnecessarily wearing out the thin nickel layer between the piston and the cylinder, and by providing all the extra lubrication, you're preventing the piston and cylinder from getting their proper running fit.

Once the engine has been started, as you richen the high speed needle, you'll hear the engine slow down. You will get to a point where it drastically drops in RPM. Thats the "4-cycle" break. When you lean out the needle, you'll hear RPMS rise to a very high pitch. Then you'll hear a slight drop as you pass the peak. DO NOT RUN IT in that lean condition for more than a few seconds or you will cause unnecessary wear.

OS recommends you cycle the engine between these two points in the directions.

Yes you can safely run the engine by yourself, but make sure you have the plane firmly braced, either by a stake and bungee cord around the tail, or having the wings against stops planted on the ground. Unless you have a starting table, do this on the ground.

BTW, I'm of the second school. For my engines, I get them started, find the high speed peak, richen it to about 500 RPM below peak, and then for one tank of fuel I cycle the throttle like I'm flying. After that, the break in occurs in the air.

Brad