By the way,

as a point of interest I ended up making my fuse 18.5% wider from F1 to F3. This is substantial bringing the FW to 2" and adding roughly 1/8" to each side of all three formers (1/4" total). Having a 2" FW allows a 4 oz Sullivan slant tank to be used in conjunction with Robart retract nose gear (#124 | 20g or 0.7 oz). The exact former sizes are (width x height):
[ul][*] F1 = 51 x 66 mm (FW)[*] F2 = 59 x 81 mm[*] F3 = 48 x 58 mm
[/ul]
In the absence of retract nose gear, the fuse can be built per scaled plans using a 4 oz Sullivan round tank (45mm OD) flush against F2 and the battery (250-400 mAh) can be installed underneath the tank leaving a little more room in the radio compartment. A tank floor wouldn't be needed in this case - only a circular opening in F2. Even so, I'd consider widening about 10% on the D10 and likewise on the T10 although there is a long dissection of fuse scaling toward the bottom of the scaled Tipo plans thread - a long post on non-linear assymetric scaling (that sounds kinda fancy doesn't it... [8D]).

I might build a hatch into both the top and bottom of the tank area. It might be only the bottom as there is no access to this area to adjust the nose gear once F1, F2, the tank floor and the gear area fuse bottom are installed.

Pete, you might find this useful in the planning of your T10. I always contemplated the wood Tipo fuse bottom to be removable especially on the small scales. There are some pictures and info on this in my T20 build thread (presently on hold).

David.