Hi Bill.

The light pin holes I mentioned are for the covering aspect only and really do not go through the wood structure/parts. I do, however, vent each wing bay from the fuselage out to and including the wingtip by first using the pin to poke a hole through each rib in front of and behind the wing spar, and then, I follow up on this by using a 1/16" drill hand twisted through each of the above pin holes. Thus, each rib has two 1/16" openings to vent air throughout the wing. I add a drop of thin CA to each drilled hole and blot the excess(don't want to close up the hole) with a Q-Tip. In addition, I make sure that the wing tip is vented and then I drill a 1/16" hole just inside of the aileron, about 3/16" toward the fuselage from the wing tip, to make sure the expanded air can escape from the wing. This method has worked well in past years and has resulted in no ballooning of the covering or structual failure of the wing. I have lived and flown models in Florida and Alabama (it gets HOT there!) and have had no problems. I decided to go the extra mile and do this to all my wood framed models when I actually saw a model wing (was finished in Transparent Blue Monokote) balloon up on the flight line, quite suddenly I might add, and the wooden structure literally exploded within the covering; the covering remained on the airplane and held all the pieces, big and small, within like a bag. Sure got my attention.

When you heat the Epoxy with your Heat Gun be sure to have good ventilation and heat it only until it starts to "puddle". It will look and go on like water and is excellent for brushing on and into all those little "nooks and crannies". I also use this method when I fuel-proof the fuel tank area.

Joe