Does anyone have any tips, or warnings, about using Balsrite before applying Monokote? What is the best way to apply it? Should I thin it? or anything else that I should know first. I am getting ready to cover 2 planes, my Eagle II after some mods and repairs and new scratch-built Ringmaster. Some of the Monokote that I have is older, so I plan to treat the plans with Balsarite before covering to improve the adhesion. Any advice that you guys have is appreciated.

Thanks

Chuck,
I have found Balsarite is not needed to cover an airplane and it actually makes it harder to get a good smooth result. The one exception is when doing repairs and the wood is oily. Another area where it is good to use even on new construction is around the nose of the aircraft or an area where the balsa is curved, or a compound curve, etc. The fact that you have old Monocote is a plus. I have used 10-15 year old Monocote and it works as good as new, etc.

How "thick" is your balsarite? Mine is thicker than water but it is pretty thin. My brother gat a can that was very thick, almost like peanut butter. The can says it should be similar to latex paint. He thinned it and it worked fine.

I have mostly used it along leading edges (fuel residue goes there) and around the firewall area. I think putting it anywhere there is a seam is OK.

I do have some oily spots on the eagle. I have cleaned them quite a bit with K2R, but they have a stained color yet, so I will definetly want to treat those areas. My main concern is making sure that the Monokote stays stuck down.

E-mail Great Planes at [email protected] and let me know what they say because I'm going to contact them anyway. I've never used Balsarite before but intend to on a new scratch built wing I'm going to cover.

Bill

P.S.; I should add that my recent contacts with Great Planes have been responded to very quickly and their customer service product support is the best I've experienced in 60 years on this planet - no I don't work for them.

Just FYI, through a recent contact to Great Planes I learned tha tbalsalite does not seal wood from hot fuel. They recommend epoxy thinned with alcohol.

Bill

Covering sticks better to Balsarite than to Balsa alone, and lots better than to plywood alone.

Use a low temp quick tack with your sealing iron, (barely touch the covering and get off) or you will pull the coloring off if you need to move the covering.

I have used the Balsarite made for coverings like Monokote for years and have experienced no difficulty at all with the product. Would not cover a plane without it. Here's what I do: Be sure you use the film formula Balsarite; the green striped can (COVR2515). I brush a coat straight from the can (not thinned) via a throw-a-way foam brush over all the surfaces, both balsa and plywood. After the Balsarite dries ( I usually wait overnight) I then go over the entire framework, lightly sanding to knock down the surface a bit, with 320 sandpaper. Vacuum the entire framework and then I go over the wood with a paper towel to pick up any further dust. Now, I then use a large T-pin and holding it so just the point extends past my fingers I proceed to poke tiny air escape holes in the framework. You don't need to go through the wood just provide some relief for the air to escape under the covering. Do this for both balsa and ply and have about 3-4 pin-holes per square inch. Yes it takes a bit of time to prepare the surface as I do but the covering has always gone on and stayed put using this method. When I iron down the covering it comes out very smooth and you do not see any of the prep work showing through. Try this method out and see what you think as your covering material continues to look great after time. BTW: Use a covering sock when putting the Monokote down and you'll like the results. Also: I do not use the Balsarite as a sealer on the firewall area of my models; I use 30 min. Epoxy instead. Mix a sufficient amount on a piece of paper and heat via your Heat Gun just until the Epoxy starts to spread like water. Brush this mixture onto the firewall via a foam brush and let dry. You'll be surprised at how easy it is the "paint" the heat thinned Epoxy on the surface. You have to work a bit faster with the Epoxy as the extra heat will activate the Epoxy faster. Hope this helps.

Joe

I've been using BalsaRite for years. It greatly improves adhesion. I've never experienced problems with it under the finish, by just brushing it on.

Sometimes the fabric formula gets thick in the can. I thin it with lacquer thinner.

Lately, I've been using the film formula, even under fabric.

Saying this, however, I've never seen the need to use it with MonoKote. It simply doesn't need it, as MK's adhesive is fine by itself.

I apply both formulas with a brush.

Thank you Tom.

Regards,
Bill

Excellent advice Joe. Venting the airframe is right on. I read a thread here where a guy placed his pride and joy in the hot summer sun and the covering material "balooned" up on him. It wouldn't have happened if he vented the covered compartments. I use a 1/16" drill because I'm lazy. Heating the epoxy versus thinning it makes more sense to me. I always worry about what the "carrier" - (lacquer thinner, alcohol, acetone) does to the epoxy chemically.

Bill

Hi Bill.

The light pin holes I mentioned are for the covering aspect only and really do not go through the wood structure/parts. I do, however, vent each wing bay from the fuselage out to and including the wingtip by first using the pin to poke a hole through each rib in front of and behind the wing spar, and then, I follow up on this by using a 1/16" drill hand twisted through each of the above pin holes. Thus, each rib has two 1/16" openings to vent air throughout the wing. I add a drop of thin CA to each drilled hole and blot the excess(don't want to close up the hole) with a Q-Tip. In addition, I make sure that the wing tip is vented and then I drill a 1/16" hole just inside of the aileron, about 3/16" toward the fuselage from the wing tip, to make sure the expanded air can escape from the wing. This method has worked well in past years and has resulted in no ballooning of the covering or structual failure of the wing. I have lived and flown models in Florida and Alabama (it gets HOT there!) and have had no problems. I decided to go the extra mile and do this to all my wood framed models when I actually saw a model wing (was finished in Transparent Blue Monokote) balloon up on the flight line, quite suddenly I might add, and the wooden structure literally exploded within the covering; the covering remained on the airplane and held all the pieces, big and small, within like a bag. Sure got my attention.

When you heat the Epoxy with your Heat Gun be sure to have good ventilation and heat it only until it starts to "puddle". It will look and go on like water and is excellent for brushing on and into all those little "nooks and crannies". I also use this method when I fuel-proof the fuel tank area.

Joe

Great tips Speak. I never liked the idea of mixing "thinners" with the epoxy.

Bill