ORIGINAL: Rendegade
All I'll add to that is made sure you buy a quality roller. Don't think you can get away with one of the dodgy 50c ones, as they have a tendency to throw the roll off and then you're left rolling in epoxy with a sharp plastic stick.
Don't ask me how I know.
Incidentally, Mike have you tried using carbon veil yet? I've noticed a lot of the control line guys using it like tissue. Seems to work well, and I think would reduce the criss cross print through.
Just a thought anyway.
I have a thread started on finishing with carbon veil. Straight forward stuff; you'll find it somewhere in RCU, probably in finishing and construction forum. Material went around compound curves surprising well with a little TLC. You want to use the 0.2 oz variety not the 0.5 oz. It stiffens structures very nicely. I've used most methods out there and this is at least as good as the best I've used, HOWEVER, you need experience to do it light. Use the techique I describe and produce a light, paint ready surface.
Glass and epoxy paint or thinned epoxy is a bit easier to apply overall. Less expensive than carbon veil, a bit heavier and not as stiff but works fine. We built all our stuff with glass and epoxy paint 20 years ago when 60's were king. The caveat with glass is the weave bleed through after a couple months when done very light, but it's a minor concern.
The major caveat with any light finish is the lack of resistance to hanger rash. I store my panels in the original husks which have been lined with felt cloth. Literally build a box around the husks which serves as carrier to the field. One set of panels is 6 years old and still looks like new. That set of panels was done is silkspan and dope
MattK