Gring,

I did a quick search on Curares here and didn't come up with anything recent. I've only been a member of RCU for a little over a year (albeit a somewhat active one) so I likely didn't see it if it's older than that. There has been a lot of exchange on Curare's over this last year but no complete build threads that I remember.

In fact, there aren't any complete build threads of the Tipo either - this I'm more certain of. This is part of the reason I did the Pico build thread but arguably I did leave out some details. Although the Curare and Tiporare share similar heritage, I don't think a Curare build thread would help a Tipo build that much - their internal structure is different and Don's short kit should ease the process a fair amount.

I have taken a number of pictures of my Pico build most of which are not posted on the thread. If you have any doubts or questions regarding the frame-up I'd be glad to help if I can. As mentioned, the Tipo goes together pretty easily and the trickier part is getting the nose section to proper contour. This really comes down to experience more than "seeing how someone else did it".

Here are a couple of suggestions stemming from my Pico build:

I believe Don's fuse sides will come with the stab cutout already made. You will also receive the new structure fin ribs. After a few exchanges on the topic (mostly in the reduced plans thread) Don changed the construction of the fin to a simpler than plans wing like rib design. In order to insure accurate symmetry of the fin, I'd bond the fin sides to the fuse rear top while lying flat essentially making them an extension of the fuse sides. Once your fuse is framed up, you can then insert the bottom rib and fin post to space them out properly and line them up on the C/L. This should yield a nice continuous line to the fuse arc which is actually straight behind F3 to the fin post. The critical rib, which is next, is the top rib. This rib will dictate whether your fin ends up warped or not. Make sure the rear fin sides are bonded at a perfect plumb line to the fuse top and then insert the top rib naturally to bring the front together. The sub LE and lower support goes in next followed by the mid rib which is brought up to profile snugness in the assembly. Don's measurements are accurate so it should line up nicely with the sub LE and tuck in at the rear. A little contour sanding all around and you can then lay down the two bonded LE blocks on the sub LE centerline and sand this to contour.

I cut a straight piece off the front of the blocks at the bottom at the 1/4" height point (in my 40" span build) so that the fuse top sheet would mate nicely. I then used a smaller amount of filler to produce a smooth continuous transition. The full scale uses a 1/2" top sheet if I recall correctly so you'll want to notch the blocks back to the 1/2" height. Note that this brings the fuse top back a little further and requires a longer length than shown on the plans. Leave the excess of the sheet off the front and once the fuse rear is finished, cut off and sand the front to match the angle of the fuse sides. I think my build thread shows these details well enough.

I hope that breakdown is of some use. I know it will help me as a reminder in my larger 72" build.

David.