Yes. When you are ready to apply the heat (everything is lined up to end where it needs to end), start at the high poing of the wing (the spar) and work your way forward to the LE and aft to the TE of the wing.

This is where I blew it today. I found that trying to start at the LE to keep the seam tight and work my way aft to the TE actually pulled the sheeting away from the LE about 1/16th inch. I don't think I let the glue set up long enough. Mine is still salvagable. I still think I have enough glue surface to be safe. Chalk this up to the learning curve I guess.

My preferance when sheeting is definately in line with Sig's Hog Bipe. Their method is seamless. It may take a bit more effort, but it would be stronger, light, and possible straighter then the current method is- IMO.

Brian

p.s. I also think that the glue needs the 30 minutes to set up on both the bones and the sheeting. It sticks better- just like contact cement.
I have also found that after the glue has completely set up, you can still hit it with the iron and tack it down if you find an area you didn't get right.

Also, it helps to have the sheeting edge-glued and prepped before you install, rather than glue it on the wing one piece at a time.
I may document how I do that. There is no secret, but it is just magical how well alaphatic resins (wood glues) work for this!