Great Planes Sequence...another perspective

Trashley,

It sounds like you are having a bad experience. I encourage you to contact Art Pesch of Hobbico regarding your specific issues. My kit was pulled out of a pile/stack and forwarded to me and to my knowledge was not hand picked or sorted in any way. As a review here are my results and equipment choices:

My actual model specs:

Great Planes Rimfire .32 42-50-800 brushless motor
APC 12 x 6 "E" prop
Great Planes Silver Series 45 amp speed control
Futaba 10C Transmitter
Futaba R617FS 2.4 GHZ 7 channel receiver
(4) Futaba S3156 Digital Micro High-Speed servos
Total weight with a 240 gram True R/C 4S 2100 mah battery is 3 pounds 11 ounces

Cowl attachment

I believe the detailed instructions (yep, I am a total geek and read the entire insruction booklet prior to assembly) suggested the cowl be taped on for added security. My choice was to use Scotch transparent tape on the sides of the cowl. I also added the an advertising graphic over the tape/cowl area and will cut the seam if I have to service the motor. Photos show the tape/graphic, spinner/cowl clearance "out of the box" and the fron of my modified Great Planes spinner.

Power/throttle setting

The flight speed of any model is a combination of personal preference, the model's particular capabilities and weather/air density conditions. My interest in the model was to verify that it flew like a "BIG" airplane...slow or in a "non flitty" way...with deliberate and focused attention to a (s l o w) pace. The airplane excells at this (I still find it quite impressive) and the high speed potential is well...easily done.

I did not push the throttle to the max and zoom around. To me electric models and their inherently larger diameter propellors provide a different flight envelope with mid throttle cruise and maybe full throttle in a vertical, a really tall vertical.

Soldering battery connectors

Everyone has their preferred battery plug soldering method...here is mine. The key is to have a big honking soldering iron (Weller #SP40L 40 watt) and some kind of fixture to hold the plug and wire while soldering. The photos shows a few clamps and balsa shims. Don't forget to put the heat shrink tubing on the wire before soldering.

As an added insulator, I use clear nail polish over the heat shrink and plug to prevent a short. Probably way too crazy...just would hate to burn the shop/garage or house down!!

Weights of batteries ready to fly

The final photos show the True R/C 4s 20C 2100 with plug/velcro (about 240 grams) and the Thunder Power 4s 30C 2250 with plug/velcro (about 240 grams).

Rusty Dose
Team Futaba