Yea, the Focus Sport is a good one and there is a gr8 build thread by Troy. But I am sort of hooked onto the Leo after the amount of time I had spent on the first one. I did a lot of changes to it based on knowledge from Troy's build on Focus and also feedback from other Leo pilots on RCU.
Some changes were,
1. Glass reinforcing the wing servo area (on the skin around the servo cavity) with a 3 x 3 inch patch

2. Since I was going with a Hatori pipe for myYS110, sawed off the carbon belly pan at the leading edge of the wing and rebuilt the pan in balsa, 30 grams (after covering) vs 120 grams for the sawed-off portion of carbon pan. This balsa pan was glued permanently to the wing.

3. I didn't go with the dowel option to hold the wing down, instead opted for 4 bolts to secure the wing. Secured a ply block with blind nuts for it in the fue.

4. I had reinforced the landing gear area quite a bit (thanks to all you guys for posting on that issue). I shoved a ply plate (6mm) where the carbon gear would slide and get secured with bolts. On the top portion, where the tune-pipe plate is, (sad I don't have pics to show), I glued a wide 3mm ply plate to spread the load. Now this whole sandwich was drilled out to attach the carbon gear halves. As a result the gear stood higher by 3/4 of an inch. The bottom of the carbon cowl had to be sanded to allow the gear to come through. This set-up was solid although I am sure it did add about 45grams extra weight.

5. At the nose end of things, the ply engine mounting plates were all sawed off and replaced with a hyde mount for the YS engine. I used the Hatori rigid header and pipe. This setup kept the model very clean. The difference with the hyde mount is very perceivable, good idle, much less sound and vibration (compared to my groovy 90, there is hardly any vibration on the wings). Maybe next time, I would consider a mouth ring as well. Also I had put a futaba GH-1 glow heat system, simple and effective, works every time. Can't seem to find them anymore though. The cowl and under chin were secured with nylon bolts and blind nuts (with ply inserts). Everything felt very secure and stayed in place with no re-tightening required after the sorties. Maybe it's because it didn't have to hold the weight of the long pipe tunnel which I had eliminated.

6. After doing step 5, I balanced the model and figured the position of the battery, rudder and elevator servos. I decided on DEPS for elevator and wanted to try a rudder connection with carbon rod and ball-links (instead of pull-pull). So I made a platform for the rudder servo towards the rear of the fuse (had to cut the covering). This was extra work, but when I get my hands on another LEO, I will go this way again, because I still needed more tail weight (14grams after test-flying) after all this and also the rudder control was super precise (don't know if that was because of the servos, linkages or the model's capabilities or just a combi of all).

7. Went with a Dubro tank in the center,had to cut a portion of the canopy floor to fit the tank. Although not the nicest way, it gives a good view of tank level for fill-up and more importantly when there is a tank leak. I had one yesterday on my groovy 90, where the clunk fuel line cut just in front of the tank and because the tank constantly gets pressurized when the starter is on, the fuel emptied from the tank into a plastic bag (that I put the tank into) and that didn't last long. I stopped trying to start only when I saw fuel dripping from the tail. mess mess mess

8. Thanks to you folks again, I changed the covering-film trims on the Leo before actually flying them off. In any case didn't care for the original scheme. The seams were then brushed on with clear polyurethane.

9. All controls surfaces were linked with ball bearing control horns and carbon rods. All servos were Hitec 7965HB (digital coreless high resolution, more torque than needed ofcourse).The elevator was with DEPS and that's were I goofed up big big time. Made an extremely taut play-free set up, but at the servo end the ball-end was secured with a thin bolt and nut. This brain fade of mine sheared the bolts on a outside loop, delinked the elevator servo mid-flight and everything else is history. But the few flights I had on her were worth all efforts. The model tracked true and knife edged were un-believable. no coupling at all. Just had to feel the rudder

Overall weight was 4380 grams (guess on the heavier side)

Now I can't wait to get my hands on another LEO. I think it's an incredibly good base model (for the price) to start if you are willing to put the time setting it up. Didn't care for the hardware really and will do all the above work again. Think it was worth my effort atleast.

Just sharing my thoughts with you guys as I have got a lot from you all.
Gyri