you guys were correct about the trim scheme, looks good but easily torn off/peeled off the model after my second tank running in the engine..[&o]

Ok i fly my LEO With the OS 140 RX, 4.396Gr ,No carbon undercarriage becouse the propeller its too long , thats incredible, the power its UNLIMITED (Notice that i flight at 7000 feet), APC 17X12N and 15%cool power.
the plane looks like a 4 stroke powered.i will post the pics this week , becouse mi camera get down.

Regards,

Sergio.

Hey tph1 thanks for all the info. I just got my Leo a couple of weeks ago, and am waiting for the YS 115 to come out. From what I've seen the 110 and 115 are the same weight so it should work out nicely. I too was impressed with the arf for the price. </p>

I am suprised to see the thread still going, I was tph1 back then. I took a break and I'm going to start back flying again.
There was another 90-110 size plane that I can't seem to remember the name now. Is anyone else flying a different ARF this size?
thanks

The only other ARF that I'm aware of in this size catagory is the world models Spot On 120. I think it is about the same size but don't know a whole lot about it. World models also puts out a Groovy 90 that is a little smaller. Other than Airborne Models carries these two I don't know anything about them.
If you want to scratch build, you might check out Insight RC. The Insight V4 is available in plan form as a pdf. I know there have been a few guys to downsize the plan to a 60 and 40 size. Don't know why you couldn't do the same for a 110 size.

Is this plane available anywhere? Seems to be out of stock everywhere.

It looks like it's in stock at giant scale planes.
Heres the link

http://www.giantscaleplanes.com/Leo%...LeoF3A_110.htm

Another option for 110 is the Focus sport. Centeral hobbies has it. I enjoy it very much.

that Focus Sport looks really good</p>

Yea, the Focus Sport is a good one and there is a gr8 build thread by Troy. But I am sort of hooked onto the Leo after the amount of time I had spent on the first one. I did a lot of changes to it based on knowledge from Troy's build on Focus and also feedback from other Leo pilots on RCU.
Some changes were,
1. Glass reinforcing the wing servo area (on the skin around the servo cavity) with a 3 x 3 inch patch

2. Since I was going with a Hatori pipe for myYS110, sawed off the carbon belly pan at the leading edge of the wing and rebuilt the pan in balsa, 30 grams (after covering) vs 120 grams for the sawed-off portion of carbon pan. This balsa pan was glued permanently to the wing.

3. I didn't go with the dowel option to hold the wing down, instead opted for 4 bolts to secure the wing. Secured a ply block with blind nuts for it in the fue.

4. I had reinforced the landing gear area quite a bit (thanks to all you guys for posting on that issue). I shoved a ply plate (6mm) where the carbon gear would slide and get secured with bolts. On the top portion, where the tune-pipe plate is, (sad I don't have pics to show), I glued a wide 3mm ply plate to spread the load. Now this whole sandwich was drilled out to attach the carbon gear halves. As a result the gear stood higher by 3/4 of an inch. The bottom of the carbon cowl had to be sanded to allow the gear to come through. This set-up was solid although I am sure it did add about 45grams extra weight.

5. At the nose end of things, the ply engine mounting plates were all sawed off and replaced with a hyde mount for the YS engine. I used the Hatori rigid header and pipe. This setup kept the model very clean. The difference with the hyde mount is very perceivable, good idle, much less sound and vibration (compared to my groovy 90, there is hardly any vibration on the wings). Maybe next time, I would consider a mouth ring as well. Also I had put a futaba GH-1 glow heat system, simple and effective, works every time. Can't seem to find them anymore though. The cowl and under chin were secured with nylon bolts and blind nuts (with ply inserts). Everything felt very secure and stayed in place with no re-tightening required after the sorties. Maybe it's because it didn't have to hold the weight of the long pipe tunnel which I had eliminated.

6. After doing step 5, I balanced the model and figured the position of the battery, rudder and elevator servos. I decided on DEPS for elevator and wanted to try a rudder connection with carbon rod and ball-links (instead of pull-pull). So I made a platform for the rudder servo towards the rear of the fuse (had to cut the covering). This was extra work, but when I get my hands on another LEO, I will go this way again, because I still needed more tail weight (14grams after test-flying) after all this and also the rudder control was super precise (don't know if that was because of the servos, linkages or the model's capabilities or just a combi of all).

7. Went with a Dubro tank in the center,had to cut a portion of the canopy floor to fit the tank. Although not the nicest way, it gives a good view of tank level for fill-up and more importantly when there is a tank leak. I had one yesterday on my groovy 90, where the clunk fuel line cut just in front of the tank and because the tank constantly gets pressurized when the starter is on, the fuel emptied from the tank into a plastic bag (that I put the tank into) and that didn't last long. I stopped trying to start only when I saw fuel dripping from the tail. mess mess mess

8. Thanks to you folks again, I changed the covering-film trims on the Leo before actually flying them off. In any case didn't care for the original scheme. The seams were then brushed on with clear polyurethane.

9. All controls surfaces were linked with ball bearing control horns and carbon rods. All servos were Hitec 7965HB (digital coreless high resolution, more torque than needed ofcourse).The elevator was with DEPS and that's were I goofed up big big time. Made an extremely taut play-free set up, but at the servo end the ball-end was secured with a thin bolt and nut. This brain fade of mine sheared the bolts on a outside loop, delinked the elevator servo mid-flight and everything else is history. But the few flights I had on her were worth all efforts. The model tracked true and knife edged were un-believable. no coupling at all. Just had to feel the rudder

Overall weight was 4380 grams (guess on the heavier side)

Now I can't wait to get my hands on another LEO. I think it's an incredibly good base model (for the price) to start if you are willing to put the time setting it up. Didn't care for the hardware really and will do all the above work again. Think it was worth my effort atleast.

Just sharing my thoughts with you guys as I have got a lot from you all.
Gyri

Some pics to add to my post
[img][/img]

If my rough math is correct, that is just over 9 lbs. How did the YS 110 do at that weight?
T

Tom,

My Leo, you know about it, has easily done everything I have asked it to do.

I have posted several times questioning the incidence situation, but have gotten no response. Maybe someone can answer now,as the plane is still being produced. Hint Hint Hint, Gyri!

Al

I need to get your email addy here at home. I sent you one from work on that YS 110 but won't get it for a while.
T

I felt the power was more than adequate. I am not an advanced flyer, just working my way through sportsman class (oops penny drops). But from a general view after few flights, I can't complain about the power. I had a new YS110 on her with a APC 15 x 8. just needed to open power to 3/4 on the climb to get pretty good verticals. Didn't try for unlimited verticals as engine was set a little rich for break-in. Other thoughts: the prescribed CG is conservative. I added some tail weight to get to a point where i needed just a wee bit of down elev on inverts to stay level (I mean just a feel). At this, I couldn't ask for more, meaning no need for incidence adjustments. Knifes into head wind were just too easy, only rudder. Climb outs needed just a bit of right rudder, again just a feel, but on the down leg, bang on, no tucking or pulling to canopy. All in all, it was such a easy plane to put on a good display.
I think with a nose ring, the rudder compensation on climb outs can be avoided. I find that when I gently open power for giant loops, didn't feel a need for rudder compensation, so presumably the engine moves a bit on the hyde mount when advancing the throttle briskly.
Al, where other than Giantscaleplanes.com can I get the Leo. I haven't got a reply from GSP on the shipping charges to India. Need to work on few sourcing options.
Gyri

hi....can you show me witha foto how you fix the under carbon .....??? i mean you put sqrew and face it with the front cover???

Tom. Where are you now?I seem to have taken a vacation from flying...might be my age and business obligations. Please respond if you read this>