The next step is to mount the rudder to the hinges and to insert the piano wire from the top. Once the piano wire was in, I then screwed back in the set screw (with a little Loctite to hold it in place). Next came the rudder cable... I screwed on the plastic clevises and put a piece of fuel tubing on them to help keep the jaws closed. As you can see from the pictures the rudder cable (once cut in half) is just the right length. The next step was to mount the servo. I also cut the servo wheel to allow for an offset of about 6mm since the hinge point on the rudder is offset by a similar amount. I also drilled out the servo wheel to save some weight. The next step was to cut the rudder cable guides to the right length and then to connect the rudder cable through the rudder wheel and to crimp the ends. I used some brass tubing (from an old fuel tank) to put over the wires and a needle nose vice grip to crimp the brass tubing. After that it was just a matter of adjusting the clevises to tighten up the cables. As you can see I decided to replace the plastic clevises with metal ones - why? When I was tightening up the clevises the one clevis actually came off the cable ended (slipped off - perhaps wore out the threads).

Next is the tail wheel...

Pictures are as follows:

1. Mounting the rudder to the hinge points
2. Rudder mounted on the hinge points (just resting on them)
3. Slipping the piano wire down the rudder to connect the hinges to the internal rudder hinges
4. Putting the set screw back in
5. Connect the rudder clevises to the horn
6. Loose rudder cable in the fuselage coming out of the cable guides
7. Dropping the rudder servo into place
8. Rudder servo wheel after being cut
9. Clevis now being tightened - as you can see I've now switched over the metal clevis and put a piece of fuel tubing in place to keep them closed
10. Servo wheel showing the cable ends that have been crimped
11. Cable guides that have been trimmed