Actually I wanted to quote your pictures from 1/19... matchbox or not, you still want the geometry to be closer. That's a pretty rakish angle in your pics.
Looking back thru, I notice that your original question got kind of lost with the whole hi-lo asymmetric thing.
Longer pushrods should help as faulknej suggested with the servo arms forward: the angle effect of a given height offset will be lower, so the differential drops some. If you already assembled the CF/brass ones too short, no worries- just Z bend some 4-40 rod because that will weigh less anyway (honest!).
In addition, you can crank the blue tabs closer to the end of the screw at the elevator end to get the pushrods more level at neutral. I have just 3/16" of the screw protruding below the blue tabyour pics appear to have >5/8" protruding. This change to longer moment arm at the control surface would further reduce the U/D differential. Of course, then you'll lose some throw, but she'll fly just fine on the low rate throws in the Phoenix manual if your CG is close (say within 1/4" of book CG) I beleive they suggest plus or minus 10mm on CG which is ~3/8". Some of that lost throw can be compensated with the Tx: you can go over 100% ATV on a Futaba 6X_ to 115% if I remember right. The pros often suggest setting your mechanical linkages "far enough out" on the horns so that your ATV is over 100%; that way you can use all of the resolution of the Tx/Rx and servos. It also tends to give better leverage over the surface, resulting in lower servo current at a given speed and throw. In other words, short horns at the control surface require more pushrod load to apply a given torque to the surface. For reference, using back to back servos at the "bottom" location I have 1" from hinge line to the blue tab's clevis pivot pin, and just over 9/16" from servo horn CL to the last hole that I am using on the servo. My rods are less than 5 degrees off of horizontal.
PS If you move the blue tabs to the END of the screw so that your 5/8"protruding screw drops to 1/16" AND move out on the horn 1 hole, you will still be ahead with a reduced angle and similar throw to before these changes. That's all fine and dandy for your lower servo, but the part I can't figure for you how to do the upper- but I can say that you may need to use a different horn hole at the servo end just to get the pushrod angles to match when the blue tabs are cranked near the end of the screw. If that doesn't work you can move one of the servos up or down as faulknej showed in his pics. I used HS-225 mighty mini servos for my elevators so that leaves more room for moving around (they're smaller than standard but still >40oz-in). they're still going strong after >>100 flights.