This only works if the CL of the new nut is on the exact CL of the wood screw holes now. Those screws don't always go in perpenduclar to the wood, but perpenduclar to the surface of the wing directly under the head of the screw. Putting in a blind or T nut is asking for trouble because it will try to straighten so the T part is flush to the wood.

Personally, If I get a kit or arf with the blind nuts, I remove them and drill and tap wood.

ShaneLittle, you don't want' a metal screw in there. Especially on a trainer. You want the nylon screw to break off if the wing whacks a tip. A steel or aluminum screw is a sure recipe for a totaled wing.

While we are talking about the nylon screws, as some of you guys on this thread don't have much experience with them, so a bit of advise. it is very easy to tighten up a nylon screw to the poiint of failure. It is strongest at the point it is tight. Make sure the screw screws in with little drag. screw it in finger tight then maybe 1/2 to 3/4 turn more. It won't feel very tight, but it is at it's strongest there. If you tighten it more, you are stretching it and it will take less stess to break it. There is no danger of it viberating loose either, which a metal screw in a metal nut will do if not tighten very tight. Hardware store 1/4-20 nylon screws are the best. I use them on any plane that has a screw on wing. I'm up to a 92" span now with them and have yet to have one break or fail other in an all out crash.

Don